Mick doesnt it have the casting as in the pic below?
It should from 1967s first L16.
eg. Block cast with crankcase ventilation for PVC

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  1967L16.jpg (57.82 KB)

Just welsch plug

Aha! so that could be the water / oil issue that occurs.
I had this issue too with my breather blocked on the a12
to make it look like an a10 but caused oil to mix with h20.

How? And what issues happened? There's still the breather on the valve cover

Usually theres crankcase pressure that cant be relieved
through the rocker cover but maybe different for L series.
Someone can chime in but crankcase breather is there for
a reason on most engines.
Nick chimes in here saying its not necessary....
Good to check on Ozdat to see what others say just in case.
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/v ... id=258030#forumpost258030

Tom, 170lbs is wet (fluid filled)? nice weight for a race motor.

Got another weight for the A14 block at 34.5kg suppose it would
depend on castings. Just weighed ground A14 cam = 1.986kg

A14 block around 34kg + H89 9kg + cam 2kg = 45kg VS lightened
L16 block 35kg + head 15.5kg (z18) = 50kg (+5kg over A14)
Timing case internals another 4kg heavier than A14 (+9kg)
L18 worked crank 13.5kg or 2kg heavier? (+11kg)
Billet Fly/clutch 7kg vs stock A14 setup 16kg? -8 or 9kg
http://clutchflywheel.com/fidanza/fid ... inum/143451/i-165501.aspx
11-8= 3kg + 15kg heavier g/box + 5kg heavier H165 alloy dif.
20kg over standard A14 setup. Rods/pistons are comparable.

You don't need a block breather. It's only their to free up a little HP by partially evacuating the block.

If you don't care about that little perf boost, then just use the valve cover breather, the blowby can push past the pushrods and get out the top eventually.

It's also used to postively ventilate the block using a metered amount of fresh air. You don't need it, a little condensation might form without it but it'll take weeks to cause a problem. Just change your oil regularly.

Ah that must be the condensation issues I'm having now, bur after a 50km drive its all gone now.
So burns off once up to temp. Good to know it's not needed. I don't mind changing oil, if the weathers dry

D my A12 weight was less coolant (obviously) but with oil. Keep in mind that the Keihin carbs are very light as is the custom manifold. Don't know how much lighter the header is than cast iron exhaust biut I'd say 7-10lbs?? (don't have one around) Also I have a 7lb lighter than stock flywheel and maybe 3-4lbs of other bits taken off.

Tom

Tom thats a good racing weight. Any chance of a pic of the setup?

It was revealed to me that Honda EB2 and 3 conrods are forged steel
maybe high nickel rods which weigh 300grams or same as most Ti rods.
Not sure on their length but stroke is 76mm on eb2 so will suit
the a12 or a14 crank with crankpin mods as they're 40mm on big ends.
Wouldnt be bad to save 150-200 grams on each conrod that along with
shorter height pistons from a motorbike would spin nicely.