Yeah used stanza ball joints. I've hopefully made a deal with a friend to swap my 260z ZG bolt on flares for adjustable stanza arms, custom camber tops (made to my requirements) and some cash my way. Once his made them for me I'll be hunting for some zero offset jap 14's and taking an angle grinder/welder to the wheel arches.

Put some stanza SSS wheels on with slightly more offset and width than the steel 13's. Surprised me that they fill the guards, the wheels that I want to buy for it are another 40mm past center so 40mm out of the guards. Hoping camber tops will pull it in enough that I can massage a flared lip on the guards instead of cutting and welding one. Will still need spacers for the back anyway.

Happy to sell these wheels (4 good tyres) or the steel ones (two good tyres) to raise funds for volk mesh 14's. Thanks

Been busy interstate and camping after having to leave a rental before our next house is finished.

*shakes fist in direction of rental agency*

Anyway Oot hasn't missed out.

Put one of the ebay fish thermometers with the cooling/heating relay triggers in (as mentioned in the slotting L thread) by drilling out the thermo sender and using a two part poxy glue to seal the new sensor in. Works killer, great to see the temperature raise and drop in detail...

Only it doesn't drop much at all, now aware that I'm not loosing water from a leak but from the water temp sitting between 90 - 103 and flowing or steaming out the overflow.

Also found an exhaust leak between manifolds when I gave Oot a tune to make sure it wasn't hot from being lean (has always been there just never worried me enough to look for it). I changed thermostat a while ago as I thought it was a bit hot but now I guess I have to fork out money on flushing the radiator :'(

Also on the bad side I need to do the stem seals as stop lights get real smokey when they turn green again, hehe.

Sall good will get time for it in a few months as long as Oot holds up till then.

wow haven't updated this in a while. Oot now has extractors into two 1.5 inch then a straight through cat and 2 inch to a small muffler that exits just in front of passenger rear wheel.

Sounded a little rough and didn't have enough back pressure so lost a tiny bit of power. So made a silencer from stock exhaust pipe. Still a bit loud but sounds killer on deceleration and got power back.

Continued overheating and loosing water for a few weeks until we got into our new house and currently sitting in the back yard waiting for another engine or rebuild.

Its got a valve stem seal or two gone, smokes lots after sitting at idle and found oil in the water also a small bit of water in the sump.

Not going to be able to spend time on it for a year or so and found my motorbike to be more suited for transport to and from my new job... also faster.

So taking EOI for sale.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n2 ... preo/2012-02-26173839.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n2 ... preo/2012-02-26174138.jpg

I enjoyed reading through this, nice ute.
KEEP IT!
Keep the datto, rebuild the A12, by the sound of things you have the ability!?
Just do rings and bearings, throw some gaskets in get the head srufaced and your good to go again!
You mentioned how low it is, i lowered mine with 2 inch blocks and took them out less than a month later, they were terrible! So bumpy it was uncomfortable plus small amount of scrubbing with 13's on...

Massive thanks to Datwags for the A12, will have Oot running clean again in no time. Probably still keep it off the road for a while tho. If I get time I'll have a try at rust repair. Just wish I had monster offset wheels to shape the guards to... if I find time.

Now why didn't anyone tell me not all A12's are the same. It appears the one I've purchased is pre 1974 so dizzy at the front, alternator on the passengers and the engine mounts are forward and higher.

Never fear there's a welder here!

Mounts done, wiring done, bought new ignition leads, only thing I didn't get time to do yesterday was welding the exhaust back together (should realy put some bolt up flanges somewhere) and get the manifolds back on n linked up.

Apart from now having a engine that's 12 years older than Oot I also gave away a L24 head that I thought was from a zed I had but turns out to be an efi skyline head with high compression chambers... Luckily I gave it to a good family who just dropped off samples of a few sets of wheels for me to choose from, including some steelies 13x6+10's and 14x6+25's. Nothing pretty but will be wide and suit the rough n tumble look I'm going for.

i just had the same trouble with early and late model a12's when i built me new worked late model a12...
I had plenty of trouble!
But if you're looking for a mild cam to go in that early model engine i happen to have one sitting here, freshly ground. When i swapped from and early to late model block i didnt even consider the different cam gear positions :S whoops. paid 120 for it to be reground, id take 80 if you're interested, im just putting it out there!
Any modding plans for the a12? Maybe a weber, h89 head? etc...
Its great you;re going to keep it going!

also a simple early model cross member would have bolted straight up, and are usually pretty easy to find as most ppl have late model a series engines in their cars if they arent original... (i have one if you want lol, i feel like a salesmen atm! haha)
Dont know where you are either but do you need to have those mounts engineered if theyve been modded from original? i would look into that!

Should be engineered but then so should brakes, tow bar, seats, boss kit, etc.

Not too worried about that stuff... touch wood.

Would love to hot up the A12 but I need to focus all my funds and energy on convincing the wife why we need to buy a friends rx7 with fresh 13b if its just for the parts. Thanks anyway mate.