Didn't sikyne offer you a tuning session on a couple of occasions? He's got a dyno is his backyard.

Stop fappin' about and take the thing to a pro....

hi thanks yess the engine is dead stock im preety sure the valve timing is correct because when u rebuild then engine i used the bright link method the car runs fine at 10 degrees btdc but i dont know what the cause of the hesitation is somtimes its thier somtimes it isnt i might take it to some dyno tuner just for advice!

getting it dyno tuned for $70 hour is ridiculous in my opinion and they say a minimum of 3 hours :(

but at 20 degrees the engine wont ping or anything even at full throttle why wouldnt it be pinging with so much advance?

Thanks!

read the service manual to see how much mechanical advance your distributor has, should be your timing at idle plus the mechanical advance, i think there is little vacuum at full throttle so vacuum advance should not contribute

to have to run at 20 on the timing cover surely indicates your cam or crank pulley or other part is installed incorrectly, that's assuming your motor is pretty much standard yes?

dunno how you have had this much patience with your car, do you drive it every day? mechanic would have found problem in no time and if you find a nice one they will teach you a few things at the same time

so i have realised that my engine (A12) runs realy good at full advance 20 degrees at idle at 790rpm and thier is no hesitation off idle like i get normaly with 10degrees let alone 7.5 degrees stated in the manual the engine becomes to shaky and hesitates badly!

so my question why does it run fine at full advance at idle?

also on the timing cover it only goes up to 20 degrees so how do i know how much the full advance is at full thorottle because the white mark moves beyond the numbers and i cant tell what my full timing is!

Thanks!