thats more wild than mild ha, talking wade numbers.. no: 446 or 1069s would be way more suitable for you givin the standard comp ratio and single carby, but all depends what your planning to do with the engine,

Sounds like a good little motor

When ernie helped me with mine ,i soon realized its not just bolt it together and hope dont go bang

We spend alot of time on the phone doing deck heights ,piston to valve clearances and dialing my cam in

Realy its worth dialing it in cos for me if I had of put my cam in normaly without dialing it in ,it would a pig to drive ,and even worse with the lightened flywheel and twin carbs ,so im realy glad I did it ,ernie realy knows what he is doing and I wouldnt trust ANYONE else with my motor from now on

Good luck!

That is a good grind for a full house Rally engine with something over 11>1 comp and a pair of twin sidedraught webers or dellorto or Solex carbs,way more than what you seem to intend the motor for use wise.

General rule of thumb for street use higher lift with shorter duration makes a good road cam as it retains good vacuum and pumping efficiency.
Cams with longer duration mean the piston is half way up the cylinder on the compression stroke before the inlet valve shuts and therefore feels sluggish to respond but revs out OK when it gets out of it's own way,That is why when you go to a bigger cam grind you need higher comp engines.
Most of the blocks and heads around these days have already been mmachined in the past so every one needs to be evaluated individually as to just how much they can be machined for optimum results,then add in is it a stock or stroker crank sauch as an A15 crank in a smaller engine or a big bore rebore as they all effect Compression ratio.

Just how high you can go depends on Ignition system Mixture quality (ie How good the Carb,Manifold and Exhaust work togrther) and just what we end up with fuel quality wise,For example in the past LPG conversions upped compression to make the same power as conventional petrol engines then the Government dropped the required octane rating of LPG available at the bowser and suddenly good working engines started having problems due to fuel quality being lowered.

Much to be aware of when planning an engine build for street use these days isn't there,but at least you are clued up enough to ask which helps get the good results.

Gday mate
im building at the moment an a14 which the block has been decked to 0.005" new hi comp but standard pistons on standard new rods, head is an a15 oval port with gx double springs,standard valves,tomei pushrods and lifters and have individual 40mm throttle bodies with motec m800 ecu running full closed loop lambda controlled. with a wade cam i think number 1069s or 104 will make a decision in the next week or so. ive spoken to a couple experienced engine builders and they are expecting 150hp or near enough to. having said that these blokes said they havent seen an a series with quad thottle injection before. and all up it wasnt that pricey.

A14 making 150hp n/a (what fuel),thats a big call by a engine builder/cam grounder.thats sounds like alot of very high performance work.comp,cam headwork,etc. hope it makes that good luck.

I wanted to chime in on this one as well:

First it sounds like you have a good collection of parts but you may not want to use them all. For a "mild" build, clean up the ports, single weber is fine, no more than 10-1 compression, electronic dizzy and a cam spec that is say around 265ish duration and say .400 lift range....................you could probaly get around 95-100 HP out of that.

I'm with bige on 150HP for an A14, I've seen figures for full race A14/15's around 170HP (14-1 compression, big valves radical cam,9500 RPM redline & motor life measured in hours) So 150 is 90% of race spec....................in a street car it would probably be miserable to drive. I have an A15 that I'll be building up with an eye towards longevity, I'm expecting around 130HP (100ish at the rear wheels). I'm using a ported GX head, 39mm flat siide carbs, a camshaft we'll call Rally spec & 11.5-1 compression.

Tom

Tom,
From what I can gather on reading various charts, US dynos always seem to give higher horsepower that over here in Aus. Not sure what that's all about but I'm pretty sure they read about 10% higher or more. Anyone know about this? They are supposed to have SAE measurements but I don't really belive it.

i found over the year,that there are a number of "HAPPY DYNOS" (big figures)out there.my call is they do that because most of the dyno operators that work on the engine, then run it up & show the customer how much improvement "they" made. "then the customer creams his pants". best thing is to use the same dyno at all times, then you know where your heading.

dynos are great for tuning under load & trying new thing, getting starting figures, but figures are what people "dream about"
.
"GENERAL RULE & ESTIMATES ONLY"

n/a engine , 1400cc = 85.67cu x 1.5 hp = 128.51hp flywheel.
thats alot of work & cost.

std a14 put out approx 0.7hp per cu = 60hp(std recon approx $2000/$2200*).

"every 0.1hp per cu extra comes at a cost of approx $500*+)


1hp per cubic inch = nice

1.5hp per cubic inch =awesome

2hp per cubic inch = f**ken look out

(YOU WORK OUT THE IN BETWEENS OF 0.1HP)

if you get to 1.5hp per cu, every 0.1hp after that is alot of homework & cost.

**this is not including the external parts eg; carby/exhaust/ignition etc

will update soon, engine still in bits

Hahaha I want one of the 'f**ken look out' a series motors ernie haha