Using the L16 I can certainly understand the reason in reguards to making it simple for engineering purposes. As the later the engine you have to fit all relevent pollution gear. It kinda sucks. In my 77 120Y I wanted to use a stansa L16 for the front bowl sump but they sais I had to fit EGR and all that crap and the 510 engine older than 77 so the alternative was that 180B's were still available in 77.

But if you are going straight gas to get it up and running then L series doesn't even come into the equation. Fancy combinations just over complicate a basic situation. But it EFI is the go then definately the L16 or L18. Then aftermarket ECU is legal.

Whatever you do, stick to the KISS rule. Keep it simple stupid. Stuff strokers for a street car. Too unreliable for longevity. O.k for a race car as you hardly plane to do 100K on a race motor.I've always liked the Z18ET. Anthony Morrows donk is off it's nut.Over 400HP @ the wheels.

Good luck, it's a realy nice car, it would be a shame to see it hacked up just for an extra 30HP.

Giggety...

Don't forget that the Z will have to lean the other way to the L series for inlet manifold clearence. That means Z sump, brackets and accessories. Once you are talking all that gear under the bonnet, 10KG isn;t that big a deal. You can save most of that in a custom exhaust manifold instead of the cast iron job.

i reckon just turbo an L series combo without the z stuff.. thats simple enough. a large port head will flow close enough to z18 head work. if your going lpg- then z18 manifold wonnt matter if its injected unless you go all out for lpg injection. that would be cool.

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Sounds like youre getting double dragoned

Footscray engine reco services (ex- repco) they do the 20b into Kent ford blocks regularly for Caterhams, Locost and Formula Fords for many eons now.

Ask for "Steve" he has looked after Dad and I. Best look at the prices again the rods are sep priced. 350 for the machining of crankpins, counterweights and re-balancing is all Ive payed and willing to till I was given a cheaper "home machinist" contact recently.

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I think youre thinking full steel roll cage race setup? That is not really the case in discussion so like before you have to again consider the datto enthusiast who is asking for lightest oldskool engineerable combo possible.

The weights have been discussed extensively at OZdat in a thread with "Dave" and I at both ends we where off .5 kg in a couple of measurements not bad for interstate comparisons. The Z I weighed was equivalent to an L20b or over 50kgs and even one of the best blokes in porting an L series (first name of Mark to those who know him :)
has offered me a super rare super thick walled L20B from x-raying countless L blocks since the 70s only came ran into 2 of these babies but had to turn it away when it tipped the scales at over 50kgs.

With an all out race car 10k or 15k makes no difference. especially when many drivers these days venture into the 30+kg round the gut territory. I prefer my gut like my
datsuns. Im not alone many see less weight is free power.

Don, there is nothing complicated about an LZ18et with LPG certainly compared to a spun bearing cr14de with quads and custom gbox or even your recent dud GX motor. Z18et with non counterweighed crank has evolved into the common tag of "LZ18ET" for over 2 decades thanks to the better L20b full counterweighed crank.

To call it a stroker with unreliability is off the mark as L16 w/ L20b crank has been common practice since Freddy Mercury revealed he goes 3 ways.
86mm stroke is nothing compared to an L20b grunter (96mm stroke z24 crank L20b)

2. The savings of a custom manifold can also be done to the the Z18et so theres is SFA in that idea.

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This is not even an issue when using an L block, angle is not an issue w/ Zet head.
If he chooses to go Z angle then its a great way 2 have good long runner inlets.
Anyway with custom mounts the choice is endless.

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Hacked up? Stuarts Z18et doesnt look that way at all which cant be said for your previous collection of 120ys glad you look after you 1Ks better.

As for 30hp extra consider same budget spent on a z18et as you would on an A15.
1. Tuned stock manifold LPG Z18et with gt28rs VERSUS same money on worked an A15.. the result LZ18et with double the power, the reliabilty and not forgetting the most mportant strength of the LZ18ET ...."Massive Torque"

Mick Z18et crossflow is a neater turbo solution to the L head
also at least 8cm shorter so better bonnet clearance.

From "Lister"
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Anthony Morrows beast is proof of a Z18et in the right
hands that can chomp almost anything out there.
The only cosmetic things I would do for that period look
is to pipe a shorter breather hose from the back of the rocker cover breather instead of the front.
Black rocker cover like some models had with polished inlet mani or newer modern plenum custom type.
eg...
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90664
jenveys ummm yummie
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90664&page=3

HPC coated headers, black leads or silver braided custom 1s
eg...
http://www.streetchopperweb.com/tech/ ... accessories/photo_10.html
and black hoseing to intercooler instead of the blue ones.

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Thanks mate. I will def be needing some help on the way. Still very new to these engines and not quite as knowledgeable as you blokes when it comes to mechanics. Am using this project to learn.

Where can I find more info on Anthony Morrow's Engine?

I think I mite stay out of this thread now getting heated I dont think you will find much info on anthonys motor either it was built by nizpro and is pretty secret spec. I do have one of the turbo manifolds off his car but

im seeing both sides of the table here. if we are giving opinions - heres mine haha

not a fan of LPG (my opinion) its like a carb, efi is king

Lseries turbo are underrated and will give you plenty of power, regardless of what head you use. zhead will help keep height down which is important in a 1000 but not so much in the 1200

a15 efi turbo is also an underrated thing and will give you your lightweightness

you pretty much need to determine your goals. lightweight? power? fuel efficiency? cost?

anthony morrows car is a squillion dollar highly developed nizpro motor, so cant really use it as an example.

also keep in mind that all the machining might sound cheap, but if you can;t screw it together yourself you'll be up for more, plus bearings, rings, gaskets, oils....

so whats the point of this thread again? haha

Leigh I have to tell you i love this European you. But if your wearing a carry over your shoulder it's over lol.

I remember reading 21st century performance and the head in a l series turbo setup will mean squat, only if Your chasing every last pony. Thats why the large volume u67 head or whatever it is will be best, will drop compression a tincy bit to stave off detonation and allow allite more boost that may increase chance of det.

Lags has had ca, a series turbo and atmo, sr and also involved in marks 180b l20 turbo setups plus more!!! I tend to agree with him but all a series turns seem to suffer ring failure of some sort (ask 1200rc lol )

Easiest option would efi the a15 then work out a low boost set up for it. Higher comp good off boost and low psi will give it a kick... Won't be a ca ball tester but enough fun for you hopefully.