so what to use so it doesnt leak? must be a conductive sealant i could use.

The temp sensor grounds the temp gauge through the threads into the block. so don't use plumbers tape when installing it.

hi rusty wrench, i used plumbers tape on the sensor, i thought that would help isolate the sensor from any potenital earthing issues.

both sensors were used, and had worked well, but the spare always sat at 3/4 temp were the one that i replaced it with sat at the correct 1/2 temp.
they both could have gone bad- being 2nd hand. unlikely though.

i get the copper loctite bit, didnt think it was suitable with coolant? glycol.

im running a L16 in my b110, no a series push rods here.

further advice welcomed.

Quote:

IF High resistance = Hi Gauge Temps, here's a tip.

The Nut that holds the brass sensor in, tend to oxidize up, clean the nut and wire brush the seating area. Use Thomas & Betts Copr-Shield or something like LOCTITE C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize.

BROKE ?
Get out the "Mill-Smooth" file and make some copper dust, mix with grease and there ya go.

BTW, T&B's Kopr-Shield is great for batter cables as it does not run, C5-A does tend to run a bit.
One application method for either on electrical, is on a CLEAN SURFACE, put a BB's worth on a rag and "burnish" [waxing like motion] into the accessible areas.

Rusty Wrench

OHC

Quote:

These A motors [pushrod] if ran with blown head gasket, poor oil condition etc, will cause the rockers to gall on the shaft.

Pretty simple to take apart and inspect.

IF you have a galled rocker, just remove the metal from the shaft, the rocker will usually give up the metal, and crocus cloth off the shaft.
You can file the most of it, but Do Not put file marks on the rocker shaft.

Rusty Wrench

If it were me, I would test the sender, and only buy a third one if the first two were defective. You can partially suspend it in a pot of water, heat it to 180F, and measure the resistance. It should be around 116 ohms. If instead it is 0 or 1000 then it is definitely bad.

Or just rely on the aftermarket gauge.

He said buy a new sender and should fix it. If not just relly on aftermarket guage

What did he say you should do next?


Did you test the senders?

If it's not the gauge and not the sender, then it has to be the wiring in between.

Careful how you rub me, there is no wrong way I will run hot straight away