Any massaging of the starter going to help?

How's fangs nsync in your kitty? Just pull the tail for the same effect

Well the starter is on. It needs a little more grinding but I didn't go through the casting which is good. I also got under fang and did some measuring. When I post the results I'm sure you'll be pleasantly suprised.

this is coming along good, whats your plan of attack after doing the starter? gonna dummy mount in fang

Nice work there Don,
I was tinking about the starter problem, (it would seem you have already got a solution). To save the hastle of the extra grinding to make std type starter fit, I remembered there is an OSGR (offset gear reduction) type starter available for the A-series therfore a-series gearboxes in general. Pic is from the 1200 wiki




I aquired one a couple of years ago for my high comp a14 build...

benny- where do you find those starter motors? are they factory fitted or an aftermarket item?
revhead- could you not slot the starter motor mounting holes a bit to rotate the motor and move the solenoid away from the engine?

looking good Don
great to see something new out of the norm
well done
Cheers Mark

Quote:

I did think of that but I chose not to mainly because of the fairly high come of nearly 10:1 I didn't want to risk elongating the holes and end up with it hitting the block at a later date due to the torque of the starter fighting against the compression causing it to hit the block and possibly shorting out for whatever reason. Might never happen but hey, it's all good. I did have to modify the starter anyway. They have a sort of natural flat in the casting for it to go againse the flat of the block. There is about an extra 2mm of material in the alloy block so rather than chop more into the block I decided to take it off the starter casing. So here it is in all it's glory...




So it fits. Now on to more pressing matters. Like will it fit... Hmmm. Well the measuring rod came out and although due to the angle of the camera lense making it look smaller than it is (That's what he said) I think it's a pretty safe bet.

The overall length of the CR14 from the back of the block to the crank bolt is 15mm less than the A14 or A12. At 450mm it probably doesn't seem like that much. But the bolt is the furthest point and it has a water pump fitted too. Whereas the A series water pump pulley protrudes a further 55mm out front. Bringing the total for an A series running the factory water pump 505mm.







Also on my thou, the starter motor goes above the engine crossmember and it has about 14mm clearence. Looking at the picture up top of the starter on the CR14, I have about 25mm of sump under the motor and not much clearence to the crank girdle. I might be able to get another 8 to 10mm out of it. So I might have to raise the motor perhaps 5 to 10mm higher than I'd like but thats not a big concern.

Now for the height. The deck of the block in reference to the top of the gearbox is about the same height as am A12. The head and rocker cover of an A series is about 180mm where the CR is about 200mm. Which makes the CR14DE about 5mm taller than an A14 or A15. That is including the oilcaps and breathers etc.

The sump is a bit trickier though. From the block face to the front edge of the crossmember where I need the bulge to have at least 10mm clearence is 180mm but the sump is only giving ne 175mm. So I need in theory another 15mm as I also have a rolled lip for strengthening on the crossmember which I won't remove due to the transverse leaf needing the added strength. It looks as if I'ss need to fab (or get fabbed) a new oil bowl area. That will be the trickiest part. Maybe not. There is still the fact that the water inlet is at the back of the head. But the ideas are already brewing.

I do like the gear reduction starter motor. That would save alot of grinding thats for sure. Do you have a part number for it?

Hopefully old mate will get the quad throttle injection sent down for fang so the engine will need to come out. So I will feel the need to do a quick trial fit before I make the sump up or even think what I'll need to do to the sump. I have a few ideas but given that the sump is a die cast thin unit it may be a bit tricky to weld.

Remote radiator filler containers, helps burp the study em in small spaces to if located at highest point.
Might make heat hoses easier to fit

Can't wait to look at this tomorrow

For the starter motor Japanese A series tuning houses have them but way over 400 clams landed while HiTorque and other places have them for similar prices they just use an adaptor to a generic gear reduction unit.
Look in this image of swiftunes one for the mini a series you can make it out.
http://www.swiftune.com/Product/514/r ... torque-starter-motor.aspx

or this RB one which is clear they use an adaptor to another make

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