Was it auto or manual??

Hey don was speaking with a tuner friend and he retuned one to bout 68kw@w

So jack sh1t has happened with this over the last couple of weeks. Too much going on to deal with it really. But I did pick up a little something to mock it up in. A miss advertized 1000 2 door sedan. I picked it up for basically the guards and doors but the shell is fairly reasonable and may serve as a long term project. The first thing I want to do is use it a a test bed for the CR14. Then see how motivated I get to turn it into a possible race car.I have most of the stuff I need to put it back together and it is a much better shell than the spare parts car in the backyard. So I have a very big mission in front of me. I need to make a new shed in the backyard to accomodate all the stuff I keep aquiring. I still want to get my motorbike running too. Far too many projects.

The pic will be spread over two threads as on the bonnet is the old Lagwagon injection. Ripe to fit into Project Fang.

Nothing worth reporting. I am gutting the 4 speed and I will be putting the motor loosely back together (no internals) but in order to continue I need to trial fit the motor. And for that I have organized a new project car. So I have to make room for it. So I am picking up a shed today and putting it up shortly thereafter so hopefully I will be able to continue soon enough.

Any progress?

Keen to see how this goes as it's really looking good and so light I couldn't believe it! Lol so many good ideas just wanna see how well she will go and if it's a good to try turbo for good hp build

Don wrote "As for the other motor I would rather compare apples with apples. That motor has steel main caps so the problems will not be the same. If they were alloy it would be a different story. "
tada! just to clarity for youthe suzuki block I pictured for you has "all-alloy main caps", weaker block and only that lil bit of steel to keep the maincaps from moving however on further inspection of the pics the CR has no skirt hence the hefty unitary main brace.

Edit: How far does the crank come @TDC to the bridged sections on the mains?
Friggin lightest lil block considering A12 is 30kg bang on bare!

14.4, that curry left more of a void than that thing weighs

Don lifted the block crank and pistons in one Arm and asked nick to grab the tray it was resting on lol. He says hurry up and grab it!!!! Not the engine the 1kg tray he was worried bout dropping hahaha.

It is amazing to see how compact it really is Once don measured it next to an a14 lol

I have already thought further ahead than that D. And yes, the mod to those centre bolts does seem like what I will have to do. But I will work all that side of things out shortly enough. I am not going to be able to mill too much out of the main bearing cap assembly as there is no steel it needs most of it for structural integrity, But I am going to have to sink those bolts enough to clear those heads. I was talking to my boss last night about it and he suggested a couple of good things, that I can physically shorten them by miles and make a new girdle that is wider and closer to the sump edges but that would be unnessicary as I don't need that much clearence, also (this will be the most likley outcome) I can sink the back 6 bolts, the lowest 4 only by 2mm or so, and then mill a bit off that area to gain some clearence.

But all that is a bit far off from this point to worry about. I pulled the rest of the motor down with young Mik and Nick there to listen to me crap on about the project and my apoligies for the smell in the shed, I did have a curry for dinner, and showed the guys first hand what is happening with it and the lads can't believe how easy I can move the engine around. It is so light. i washed the bottom end components last night at work and weighed the block.




14.41KG. Not too shabby.




As you can see the girdle itself is reasonable straight, but the center bolts are higher and underneath the casting does change. If they are sunk the ribs will get thin but there should be enough surrounding meat to keep its strength.

As for the other motor I would rather compare apples with apples. That motor has steel main caps so the problems will not be the same. If they were alloy it would be a different story. I have to deal with what this engine has. There will be no extravagand modifications on this motor. It needs to remain as standard as possible. I will spend any money on the outside getting things to fit.

The 2 middle studs seem to be the issue so just wondering if you can use the rear bolts (marked in lime fluoro green) on the middle ones using recessed holes wide enough in those caps enough to be able to get a socket in or not enough meat? Would it make a difference to the height or too much work for extra 12-15mm?


Suzuki g13b gti motor has no ladder brace weaker block than the cr14 with less webbing and still thin pressure die cast and just gets by with 2 small tin strips of steel plate on the 90mm stroke g16b.

last pic is g16b bottom end ladder brace 2 sep steel bits as weak as the rods!

Attach file:

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  maincaps cr14.jpg (121.66 KB)


  g16b bottom end caps.jpg (192.99 KB)