As Salaam Alaikum bakat, bro, there are three earthing wires 2 on the body and 1 on the cam cover

the price on the site is 98 US dollars with shipping, in Pakistani Rupees that is somewhere around 10000rs, a brand spanking new distributor here cost 900 to 3500rs... :)

You must have misread something somewhere, these kits should only cost half the price of what a distributor costs.

Racer, brother i will try your wiring, i did do the valve adjustment before when hot about .35mm, i will re adjust the clearance on cold again, there is no bolt on the carby with wires no wires at all, bro i would buy the points conversion kit with my eyes closed but the cost is too much, in my country you can get 50 to 60 distributors for that price, can you guide me as to which Electronic Ignition Distributor can i replace the stock one with and with minimum alteration if possible, Thanks, i am posting a few pics of the coil,

the volts are not specified on the coil, the resistance is 1.0 ohm
The voltage coming from the battery to the coil is 13.4 14v!!...

Attach file:

---

  IMG0438A.jpg (56.86 KB)


  IMG0439A.jpg (50.25 KB)

just a probability. have you strapped your engine earth wire? stock engine earth wire would be attached to oil pump if i am not mistaken.

Always happy to help a brother out

Before I give info about the points conversion kits, I'd like to suggest something. Buy 2 toggle switches (on-off) and wire everything up like this:




Flick switch 1 to 'on', ignition will now be on. Flick switch 2 to 'on', starter will be on, switch to 'off' once engine fires.

Using this wiring, you will bypass a lot of things and it will be wired up correctly. Try it out and see if that solves your problems.

Does your carby have a wire going into the end of a bolt off the side of it? If this doesnt get power this will disrupt fuel flow. You may have to adjust my wiring to include this off switch 1.

Also, have you adjusted valve clearances? Adjust them while cold, factory specs are 0.25mm for both intake and exhaust. Having the incorrect valve clearances can cause problems if the engine has trouble running once warmed up. The clearances reduce when the engine gets hot as everything expands, and if the valve clearances when cold are too small (or no clearance at all), when the parts expand, the valves will no longer seat correctly and you will lose cylinder pressure/compression. Once the engine cools, everything seems to go back to normal.

Now to the points conversion kits...

No modifications have to be done if you get the right kit, everything bolts/clips/screws into the OEM positions.

I think the only difference between the early block (mid mount distributor) and late block (front mount distributor) distributors is the mounting plate which bolts the distributor to the engine block, but they do not need to be changed when performing the points conversion.

The 2 main kits I see up on eBay are the Pertronix Ignitor and another kit by a USA company called Hot-Spark Performance Products. They are more or less the same, HSPP makes a lot more model specific kits and have more info about their kits to help you order the right kit.

http://www.hot-spark.com/1-Hitachi-Distributors.htm

This kit should work on your distributor, check their picture measure against your points.

Go thru this catalog and see if Pertronix list a kit for Nissan/Datsun A12

http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf ... ptx2010_ignition_conv.pdf

Sad to hear you can't just use eBay/Paypal, would be heaps easier

racer135, We dont have points conversion kits here, nor do we have paypal yet.. so ebay is a problem, plus i can get the front and rear suspension in $65 here :D, reason being parts here are smuggled in or imported as scrap from Japan, Dubai, Malaysia e.t.c. via Afghanistan, whole Engines e.t.c. could You guide me to which Electronic Ignition System would be compatible with the stock A12, by the way the placement of the distributor is near the flywheel not above the oil pump like on U.S. models, is there a difference in the fitting? will any modifications have to be done? can you guide me, i will look for it in the local market.. Thanks Brother :)

On one of my Datsuns, the ballast resistor used to glow red hot sometimes when you left the ignition in the ON position. This can happen sometimes when the engine stops with the points in the distrubutor sitting in a closed position. You dont get that if you have electronic ignition (depending on what type it is, but most of them dont do it)

Why don't you get a points conversion kit such as Pertronix? Added with a Bosch HEC715 coil (ebay, AUS$65 delivered), that will get rid of your ballast resistor, condensor(s), and the dwell will be perfect all the time, no more playing with points.

i don't really know how to check that condenser. but my practice is, i replace that condenser whenever i replace my contact point. it's cheap. and i think 1 is enough. stock configuration use only 1.

bakat, Wa Alaikum As Salaam Wa Rahmatulahi Wa Barakatahu, brother how do you mean? there are two of them.. how do check that??