Oh yeah, in my old rally car we mounted the isolator on the tunnel and then ran a choke type cable to the front guard so it could also be operated from outside

battery - cable - isolator - cable - starter post - accessories running off starter post.

CB is just another point of failure, just make sure that the cable is well installed/protected where it passes any sharp edges.

Also, are you wiring the alternator thru the isolator (you can get special isolators that allow this)? If you don't you will find the car will continue running when you open the isolator (i.e. disconnect the battery) and possibly damage the alternator.. When the isolator is opened, the car should stop immediately to pass scrutineering.

ok where to mount battery cut out switch so would pass event scrutineeing once battery is in boot?

dont really want to drill holes in the rear 1/4s for it, so would mounting it where the original battery tray cause many dramas, or just in the interior for me to use be ok?

got one that handles 500amp instintainious and most handle about between 150-200 amps continiously so more than adequate for a car.

also would need to mount it to make sure no pos connectioions to body of the car.

Cheers, what amp breaker u have?

I have it all running from the starter motor the negative is earthed in the Tray and the circuit breaker mounted under the tray and isolation switch comes up through the handbrake hole and has the switch on the seat rail

I'm part way through setting mine up in the ute, the battery is going under the tray behind the drivers seat, the positive cable will run to a 200amp circuit breaker (should be mounted close to the battery if one is use), then onto a keyed isolator which is mounted to the seat mount so I can reach it if needed. I also purchased a distribution block but haven't decided if I'll use that or just take the additional power supplies off the isolator. Power and earth then run to the starter motor.
I went with 1/0 gauge cable and mainly used audio gear. The grey and clear cables are the ones installed now, the red & black were damaged by a panel beater when the tunnel was welded up...

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Read up on it. AGM will vent. Just not very much compare to regular battery. They use them in electric conversions too.

Agm should only vent if something not right through a pop off valve.
I've seen the kits and put together all the stuff for half that

Most do not fit any fuse or circuit breaker. Although for racing i think it is required for a disconnect switch
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Pa ... tery-Disconnect-Switches/

You can move the normal lead-acid battery to the back, or an AGM lead-acid battery. Be sure to vent the battery box to the outside as even AGM can create a little hydrogen gas.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Br ... g-Battery-Relocation-Kits

36ah it's 20cm x 14 x 16cm. 6mm holes on the posts and 4m of 35mm2 flexi battery cable... Nice thick copper