I was thinking of getting a supercharger to put on my KA .. But they're just too expensive! it's like over $2k for just a vortech or an eaton 62 .. I can get a whole turbo conversion kit from the US with a BALL BEARING turbo , intercooler, wastegate and all piping for $1500 landed. and really a turbo has just as much low down torque if you set them up properly.

Thanks for the words Jmac and to all the unfinished datsuns out there we all have different lives with different issues, budgets and ideas so passing judgement without knowing the person on a personal basis is nothing but petty. The main thing about dattos is that they are never finished if you like to tinker, change styling and go faster then it sure beats wasting money at pokies etc. Each to their own.

I like the idea of a budget oil as when I was looking for advice on the IHI version of the Lysholm Ax1200 in the Eunos v6 I found peeps had no issues with 10w-30 synthetic oil as long as it was changed every 5000 kms as this blower relies on sharing the engine oil for both lube and cooling.

With oil in the SC14 Id guess it would last at least 20,000kms but I dont know for this 1.4 roots type blower
how you would keep it cool in sustained race use unless you
just spray the casing with water again for cooling.

Im not using the IHI twin screw blower now I bought 2 to play with but have decided on the lil Amr500 for packaging so my IHI blower will be for sale, they have a Peak flow of 635 CFM @ 17.5psi & can run a oil cooler unlike most others.

I use a Eaton M62 on my Z24 with 5 .pounds of boost. It's pretty quick but I'm thinking about moving on to a KA24de. I'm going to skip the fuel injection and use the supercharger and nitrous again along with a dual weber carbs.
I just want the car to go faster. Looking for a motor now for a winter project.

Here is the map for the 1200AY supercharger.
It's actually for the Lysholm version, but from extensive searching they say that the IHI unit is the same pump, just built under license by IHI.


I'm too tired (thanks to my one week old girl) to convert 18m2 into cfm atm.
But I'm going to run my IHI blower on the CA18det thata I have squirreled away for my 510. The twin screw design (One male, and one female rotor) is far far superior to the AMR's, SC's, and Eatons alike. Space can be a limiting factor though. My 510 is going to be all under bonnet. Stuff poking through the bonnet gets old. My car lives outside, and the underbonnet gets filthy. (Windblown dust from liquifaction, and roading in my area make it even worse)
I would dearly love to know what pulley ratio the IHI's ran on the Mazdas. Although they did run mickey mouse cam timing. Acording to Feral's formula posted years ago, 1.5:1 should yeild a nice 14psi of boost.

ka24de supercharged sounds just right!

Bart, congrats mate now less money for beer will bring good health! if you want to swap my AY1200 for your 4 port head let me know ;) can even give you free R200 lsd for your 510 if you have a kiwi mate here that wants a sore back taking it back :)

Clutch or viscous?
I already have my r200 with a Viscous LSD, and shortened skyline half shafts and CV's all ready to go.

Man I miss sleeping.........

LOL, viscous heavy lump! good luck on the sleep!!! melatonin tablets help when short sleep is the only option.

can I use AC compressor oil as supercharger oil?

Not sure but you could prob use the compressor as an asthmatic supercharger :)

It 'might' work, but I'd add that whilst it does lubricate the compressor, it also circulates with the refrigerant gas in the a/c system. So it probably has additives or a composition that can handle very cold temperatures without becoming too thick to circulate (not a bad thing, but these are temps you'll likely never see on a supercharger). It'll also be able to stand relatively high temps,

Additionally some a/c oils are compatible with a range of refrigerant gases (from the old r12, to what is the other one - r134a?. Then there's the 'hychill' r12 replacement (r134a isn't as good as a refrigerant,) which is essentially a mixture of butane and propane (no kidding) which works exceptionally well as a refrigerant, but there is a slight (and I mean very slight, any one of us has likely got more chance of marrying a supermodel than this happening) of a small fire/explosion. the amount of refrigerant is small - probalby well under a litre, anmd it'd have to leak almost all at once, and into an enclosed space, and be exposed to a naked flame)= but yes there is a risk of it.

Anyway some a/c oils are compatible with a range of refrigerants and some are not. the last r12 spec oil I bought was abou $70 per litre (and if anyone cares, i accidentally put a hole in the fridge ice box area and lost all the gas out of it, then 'soldered' the hole with 'durafix' aluminium brazing rods, and re-filled it with oil and the the gas from a 'hobby' sized propane torch)- anyway it was pretty expensive stuff.

but as to whether it is 'optimal' for what is (in the case of the supercharger) a small 'gearbox' (as far as where the oil 'goes' in a supercharger) I don't know for sure but would think no. In which case, I'd suggest that even monograde motor oil around 30 weight would be a good thing to try. You could use a multigrade motor oil, but if so I'd suggest a current generation synthetic one. The 'older' multigrades have vi improvers (basically particles that shrink when cold, then expand when warm, so the oil doesn't thin out at higher temps) and generally those things (the old style stuff at least) tend to get destroyed with the shearing forces in gearboxes, and they then deteriorate hte oil to well below the properties of a monograde oil.

A 4 litre container of monograde engine oil (or whatever) isn't too expensive, and the supechargers don't take all that much volume of oil, so it'd be cost effective if you changed the oil in the supercharger when you change the engine oil (and for me that's approximately every 5000km).

If you can get your hands on one, the lysholm style superchargers (which have internal compression, not just a positive displacement blower like the roots type) they have about the best efficiency you can get - meaning they heat up the intake air the least amount (vs other compressors) for any given boost/flow level. On a pure peformance perspective they are very hard to beat. Of course if we are on a budget (and we all are to some extent) then you can still get great results with a roots type, or whatever. You might need a little lower compression ratio or more water injection to achieve the goals, but it'll still get there sure enough