Post a picture of the rotors Dave. (For reference purposes)
I'm too useless to try photograph mine.

Thats right yes same as a turbo but no water lines of course hence I was saying I prefer changing the 10w-30 synthetic oil on a regular basis making sure oil is plumbed coming out from the filter not before it.

The mounting points are pretty simple even without the craddle and padding.
4 mounting holes, 2 each side

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If it's like mine, it'll use it'll have a connection to the lubrication system on the car to stay lubed. MIne also has an oil return too. I have the factory mounting cradle which very few of the ones I've seen for sale have had.

Hey D - looking at info on the lysholm website, they mention that depending on appplication, some were configured to have their own self contained oil/reservoir, but others use the engine's oil supply/return - a bit like the way turbochargers do. Which type is yours?

Came off a Mercedes SLK230. I bought it from some kid who was going to use it on a V8. Its to small for a V8.

wow that's cheap! maybe it pays to look second hand? was it one of the ones of falcons or commodore?

I paid $125 for my Eaton M62. I thought I got a good deal.

Thats pretty cheap.
I paid similar coin for mine.

If interested I have my superclean IHI SC for sale
twin screw positive displacement or Lysholm AX1200
suit 1.2 to 4 litres $350

It 'might' work, but I'd add that whilst it does lubricate the compressor, it also circulates with the refrigerant gas in the a/c system. So it probably has additives or a composition that can handle very cold temperatures without becoming too thick to circulate (not a bad thing, but these are temps you'll likely never see on a supercharger). It'll also be able to stand relatively high temps,

Additionally some a/c oils are compatible with a range of refrigerant gases (from the old r12, to what is the other one - r134a?. Then there's the 'hychill' r12 replacement (r134a isn't as good as a refrigerant,) which is essentially a mixture of butane and propane (no kidding) which works exceptionally well as a refrigerant, but there is a slight (and I mean very slight, any one of us has likely got more chance of marrying a supermodel than this happening) of a small fire/explosion. the amount of refrigerant is small - probalby well under a litre, anmd it'd have to leak almost all at once, and into an enclosed space, and be exposed to a naked flame)= but yes there is a risk of it.

Anyway some a/c oils are compatible with a range of refrigerants and some are not. the last r12 spec oil I bought was abou $70 per litre (and if anyone cares, i accidentally put a hole in the fridge ice box area and lost all the gas out of it, then 'soldered' the hole with 'durafix' aluminium brazing rods, and re-filled it with oil and the the gas from a 'hobby' sized propane torch)- anyway it was pretty expensive stuff.

but as to whether it is 'optimal' for what is (in the case of the supercharger) a small 'gearbox' (as far as where the oil 'goes' in a supercharger) I don't know for sure but would think no. In which case, I'd suggest that even monograde motor oil around 30 weight would be a good thing to try. You could use a multigrade motor oil, but if so I'd suggest a current generation synthetic one. The 'older' multigrades have vi improvers (basically particles that shrink when cold, then expand when warm, so the oil doesn't thin out at higher temps) and generally those things (the old style stuff at least) tend to get destroyed with the shearing forces in gearboxes, and they then deteriorate hte oil to well below the properties of a monograde oil.

A 4 litre container of monograde engine oil (or whatever) isn't too expensive, and the supechargers don't take all that much volume of oil, so it'd be cost effective if you changed the oil in the supercharger when you change the engine oil (and for me that's approximately every 5000km).

If you can get your hands on one, the lysholm style superchargers (which have internal compression, not just a positive displacement blower like the roots type) they have about the best efficiency you can get - meaning they heat up the intake air the least amount (vs other compressors) for any given boost/flow level. On a pure peformance perspective they are very hard to beat. Of course if we are on a budget (and we all are to some extent) then you can still get great results with a roots type, or whatever. You might need a little lower compression ratio or more water injection to achieve the goals, but it'll still get there sure enough