Strangely I went and bought 4x new tyres and got them balanced. The car still pulls to the right but no where near as bad. It drives heaps better...

yes, whatever is causing the tyre to be that far back is causing the pull to one side.

Take you tyre off and look. You can probably see what's wrong. Or take soem pics and put them here.

Cheers DD
Nice decipher.
If my LCA was knackered would that be the reason the car pulls to the right also?
Any idea where I can get right LCA now days? I'm in Perth W.A

haha, I don't have all receipts, but saved my first one.

OK, i figured it out.
In the PARTS side, it only has one part:
Quote:For a wheel going back too far, that makes more sense than a damaged strut.

Price of used LCA hasn't gone up in the last 30 years!

cheers
Yea thats stylish that you still have receipts from back then! I see what you mean, I can't decipher that writing either. The shop did claim the right strut was bent in and back which helps all the theories discussed earlier. Now I need to find another right strut, anyone got a spare?

IM more amazed you have receipts BAck to 1981.... Hello Mcfly!

That's why the bushing should be inspected before buying new ones. I'm sure BeeJJ is not going to buy them first, only to find out they are perfectly fine and didn't solve the problem. The Caster article gives a spec for the bushing thickness.

If the wheel alignment guys are correct that the right strut is bent, simply replace the strut. It is non-adjustable in stock form.

But shoota's still correct, camber has little to do with the tyre hitting the back of the wheelwell. A bent strut is unlikely to cause that, as it is fixed at the bottom by the caster rod. A bent spindle might cause it.

What's funny is that TWO wheel alignment shops couldn't fix it. Back in 1981, that was the first repair to my 1200 -- the right wheel hit the back of the wheelwell, and the local alignment shop fixed it.

I can't read the handwriting to see which parts were changed.

first link.

weird the report does indicate excessive positive camber compared to the passenger side. could it be the strut is actually bent back and in?

indicative of hitting something from that side?

if the base of the strut was pushed in,the top of the tyre woulp be further out then the base, and it could be pushed towards the rear of the wheel arch.

the castor isnt much of an issue on that report, but worn bushes would show up more when drivg, so the alignemnt may not pick them up,.

thanks again guys.
Ok I will do bushes first.
Is this what I need?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-SUN ... m255e9fcb8b#ht_500wt_1180

or this one?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-120 ... m4ceb05a8a8#ht_1197wt_905

I recently bought a pair of struts for $150 from a member on here, and they came with near new wheel bearings, brake rotors and calipers (and some dodgy cut springs, however, I digress)

The guys at WA suspensions are great, but you have to keep in mind they have some pretty limited "brand specific" knowledge. They fixed the front end of my ute up nicely, but the old B310 ball joint and tie rod secret went straight through to the keeper until after I got it back :(

From personal experience, I would def look at bushes etc before looking to put your struts in a 10 tonne press and getting busy wit it.