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Re: Sway Bar.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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I think you'd probably find some benefits in going thicker than the 120y bar. I _am_ however saying this specifically in the context of assuming you still have stock factory front springs in there - which are (imo) so soft that you are effectively trying to compensate for it via the sway bar.

I definitely noticed the difference going to a 120y sway bar (I got new urethane D bushes, and new rubber outer bushes). I've gone to heavier springs (an abortion like effort - using king springs - their 'made to suit 1200s' springs aren't captive at full droop, so then after calling them they replaced them (I called their head office in QLD, their local rep in melbourne didn't give a darn initially) - swapped for what I looked up and turned out to be originally their spring for the rear of a hyundai excel (I don't have the part #s in front of me but could dig em up if you want). These were captive, and a tiny bit increased rate (vs their heavy duty low set I first had that weren't captive) but the car then sat higher than stock (and that's 'stock' with nearly 40 year old springs which surely have sagged a little). SO in the end, as a band aid, I cut about 1 or 1.5 coils off them (I forget exactly how much) but basically it _just_ maintained a captive spring with full suspension droop, and _just_ got the ride height back to nearly standard. And after all that the spring rate is a little higher, but nowhere near enough.

I'm so 'negative' about the hd low springs for the 1200s, I picked up a set with a rolled rally car I acquired and if anyone wants them they can have em free of charge. I made that offer some time ago, nobody took it up, and the offer stands. With ANY of these spring options (including stock factory ones) you can rest assured that the thicker 120y bar won't be too much, if anything it won't be enough. You will notice it through a corner. It's still too easy to bottom out over bumps and the like (i.e. anything in a straight line where both springs will be compressed,amd the sway bar doesn't add anything to the situation)

Back then people mentioned gemini front springs. I got mine off a tx model (the first of that general series of geminis and the td and te models had progressive rate springs, I wanted the linear rate ones, but not everyone would go that way). Due to them being more of a wishbone setup, and the spring being inboard, the stock gemini spring has less 'leverage' on the wheel, so they are a thicker spring material, which means the stock springs are a higher rate spring than the datsun, by a fair bit. they would sit too high in std form, so need to have 1 1/2 - 2 coils cut from them to 'work' . They definitely won't be captive at full droop, so you'd have to use the shorter strut inserts (out of the vw rabbit or whatever on the wiki) or use keeper springs or lockwire them in. I haven't fitted them yet (had to put it on hold when work and money was scarce - now I'm doing ok, but short of free time to allow long enough to fit it on in there) But based on spring coil thickness and length etc, I think they'd come in at closer to double the factory spring rate. Which should be quite good.

Naturally suspension settings differ according to the track surface, the track design (short tight turns, or long straights and more gradual turns, or some of each) and tyres - and last but not least - driving style/driver preference (heck, even at formula 1 level 2 identical cars from the same team will have variations, perhaps small but there nonetheless, in suspension setup due to the drivers and their style etc. So bearing that in mind, I'll say something VERY general about suspension setup (with regard to springs vs swaybar thickness). Some prefer more spring and thinner swaybar, some the opposite. In general, you'll be able to get a pretty good compromise if you run spring rates just soft enough to help keep the tyres on the road surface over bumps/undulations and just barely soft enough that when you brake hard, there is good weight transfer and the tyres get more downforce (and note that downforce/force in general doesn't necessarily go hand in hand iwth the front end drooping down a lot under brakes) - so you run stiff springs, but soft enough to get ideal braking, then you 'tweak' things to get cornering right with the sway bar. It won't set you lap records or anything but it will at least get you to a starting point.

It may seem that from the above description (front springs just soft enough to handle road surface irregularities) that since (usually) suburban roads are a lot bumpier than a racetrack so you'd therefore need much stiffer springs. The 'curveball' here is that the other thing about front end control is preventing the suspension bottoming out - either by hitting the end of travel/bump stops of the suspension, or the car chassis itself scraping somewhere. SO yes, the racetrack is smoother, usually, BUT you are also typically running a lot lower ride height vs a streeter, so if you had identical spring rates etc, the circuit racer would be bottoming out a lot more.

I'm definitely oversimplifying here, and afaik you aren't intending to race this car, so the circuit comments are only there to give a little bit more comparison/info. The bottom line is that even if you were a 'heavy springs light swaybar' fan, the factory springs are too soft for any spirited driving, so you will definitely see a gain from the thicker swaybar.

Posted on: 2012/10/13 7:16
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John McKenzie
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Re: Sway Bar.
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since about 1970.

54611-H1002 -7907
54611-G1600 7908-
54611-H2300 GX and Datsun Competition

I think the first two are the same size (16mm?), as they use the same bushings.

My sedan came has a larger 18mm bar, but I didn't put it on and it seems unlikely the little old lady that owned the sedan previously would have done it. In any case some 1200s have the large bar already.

A14-equipped B210s came with a 20mm bar. A12-powered B210 came with 18mm bar reportedly.

Posted on: 2012/10/12 3:18
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Re: Sway Bar.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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since when?

Posted on: 2012/10/12 0:41
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Re: Sway Bar.
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There are two sizes of original 1200 anti-sway bars.

Posted on: 2012/10/12 0:25
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Re: Sway Bar.
Home away from home
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What 22mm way bar could be used?Any mods?

Posted on: 2012/10/11 22:18
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Re: Sway Bar.
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about 22mm is about the biggest you need for road

Posted on: 2012/10/11 14:41
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Re: Sway Bar.
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What's the biggest sway bar or best size sway bar to use to make it corner properly in millimetres? I've got a sway bar it's big but can you go too big??

Posted on: 2012/10/11 14:14
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Re: Sway Bar.
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OK then I have the original 1200 bar,so i'll feel better having it installed because do alot of country driving.

Posted on: 2012/10/11 1:17
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'71 Four Door Sedan.
A15 Engine + Lighten Flywheel.
E15 Electronic Ignition 32/36 Weber EI Coil 4 into 2 into 1 Extractors 1 3/4 Exhaust Pipe Semi Flow Hotdog 60 series Gearbox H150 Diff.

Street Sleeper!

STILL LIVIN' THE 70'S LIFE !!
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Re: Sway Bar.
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If you have the small 1200 bar, you will feel an immediate difference when cornerning. If you have the large 1200 bar, there will be no difference.

Posted on: 2012/10/11 1:14
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Sway Bar.
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hi people!

Today i got myself a b210 sway bar for my 1200,Would i fell any difference right away after putting it on?

Cheers.

Posted on: 2012/10/11 0:45
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'71 Four Door Sedan.
A15 Engine + Lighten Flywheel.
E15 Electronic Ignition 32/36 Weber EI Coil 4 into 2 into 1 Extractors 1 3/4 Exhaust Pipe Semi Flow Hotdog 60 series Gearbox H150 Diff.

Street Sleeper!

STILL LIVIN' THE 70'S LIFE !!
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