IM SELLING MY CAR I CANT AFFORD THE CONVERSION AND HAVE CHANGED MY MIND ITS A GREAT LITTLE CAR WITH ORIGINAL BODY AND PAINT. IT HAS AN A15 WORKED WITH TWIN SU'S GOOD REGO FULL SAAS BUCKET SEATS NICE LIL MAGS LOWERED AT THE FRONT I HAVE GIVEN IT A NEW EXHAUST AND REAR SHOCKS ANYONE INTERESTED EMAIL ME AT rolla_boi@hotmail.com IM SELLING IT FOR $2500 negotiable [SYDNEY SOUTH]

<small>[ Edited by mikali on 2002/5/13 15:31:42 ]</small>

what did they quote you for the ca conversion ??

about 7 to 9 grand and no guarantee on when the job is going to be completed, thats just not enough for me i need to be more assured and stable than that so ...

STRIKE, thats no good.. im after a cheap (read ~$500) 1200 coupe if you see any :))
in QLD/NSW for a ca conversion.

hey 120why
what happend? did you see the light? not converting 120Y anymore? going for a 1200? if so nice work

1200 coupe is lighter + easier = :)...

-taken from the ozdat.com forsale board

1200 CA18 conversion kits Full bolt in conversion kits for CA18DE/DET into 1200 ute,sedan & coupe.
Price: $350 Location: sydney
Contact: paul Email: inj_18l@hotmail.com.au
Phone: 0414487469 (hours: all)

i find it hard that some1 can charge 7k->9k for a conversion with the avialibility of kits such as this...

<small>[ Edited by 120WHY on 2002/5/13 12:15:59 ]</small>

fellaz its just the dif and driveline ive been told a diff conversion is guna cost like 2000 + if i could know what to put on my car without spending a shitload on a diff i would keep it every mechanic i call tells me its heaps expensive it makes me wish i knew how to do more to a car than put petrol in it if u know what i mean CAN U GUYS HELP if u do ill post everything on my website if i can find a cheaper way to do it.

The cost is in doing all the work in one place.
Doing this install properly isn't cheap.

Using a fitting kit example:

2nd hand Engine and Gearbox and Wiring Loom $2300
Engine Install $450
Fitting Kit$350
Diff $250
+ shortened + modify mounts + respline $600
+install $250
Fuel Lines + EFI Pump + surge tank $300
Clutch pedal parts $150
+install 0.5day$200
Wiring + labour 1day $400
Radiator + Install + labour 0.5 days $550
Piping to intercooler + hoses $500
Move battery to boot $160
Exhaust $250
Stiffer rear springs to deal with axle tramping $180
Bigger brakes on front $350
Booster and Master Cylinder to suit brakes $100
Retractable Seatbelts and passenger mirrors for registration $200

Engineering certificate $300

With all of this and probably 10 hours additional labour @$50/hr $500

AUS$8340. That's even with the savings made by using a fitting kit. Instead spending 10 hours making the engine and gearbox mounts. Which would add another 5-10 hours labour.

I think you might get away with $6000 if you don't mind having very bad brakes. How much is your life worth?

These are all approximates. I sometimes forget how much can be saved by spending days on end searching wrecking yards for cheap parts. This will take even longer if you don't know what to look for. R&D is always where the expense is.

This is why I think that any work on cars 'must' be a hobby that you enjoy. Otherwise you are paying other people for their knowledge, and you risk being labelled a chequebook tuner.

Flame me if you think I'm wrong. I think working on cars, and developing a good set of tools/equipment is critical to doing the job yourself. If you can't invest in tools, then paying someone else is the only alternative.

Chris

Your spot on there Chris I spent quite a lot of money setting mine up even doing the majority of the work myself the good part's you need still cost lots of money for instance my fuel system cost is around $1000 it all adds up. If I had every cent I had spent would have to be close to $25k maybe more but then think of it liek this what coudl I buy knew for that?? a pulsar or simaler no style or fun. If only I had more time and money I would love to set my shed - workshop up for doing conversions on other people cars even at $25-$30 an hr im sure would get a lot of work.
cheers Andrew
PS when will your 120 hit the road?? is the diff finished yet?

Diff is almost done, getting the axle done tomorrow..*Cringe* got to pay for someone else to do it. He's a nice fella and I don't think he'll charge too much. The original suspension mounts fit the Toyota AE86 rear suspension bars. The bottom arm will fit in the front spring holder. A second mount point at the front of the rear wheel arch will hold the top bar. Not sure if I'm going Panhard rod or Watts linkage yet. Can decide that later.
I like how the diff has integral drum brakes as part of the disc, for the handbrake. No offence fellas, but the diff's handbrake pads are the same size as standard 1200 rear drum shoes

It's looking good. 3.54 ratio (non-LSD) can be converted later if it holds up. I was at the wreckers on the w'end (spent 5.5 hours there), and every second 1990+ commodore and falcon use this diff. It's not too hard a modification, especially because only one axle needs shortening.
I switched them over from left to right.
It'll look pretty mean hanging out from under the spare wheel well.

The disks are the same dia. as the Mitsubishi Verada disks on the front. I'll need to get new rear disks, but at $250 for the diff, I can't complain. My good ol' man will sandblast the calipers and caliper brackets tomorrow.
The housing was welded up this evening. It's lost 100mm per side. The diff should be complete by the end of the week.

I've spent the last few weeks paint stripping the undercarraige and rust treating every square inch. Completed leadwiping a strip of brazing rod around the edge of the boot to give a nice even gap.

The project is still moving. Although it's at the cost of going out and having a good time. I need to save both money and time for the 1200.

Chris.