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Mik just can't help himself.

Has anyone run an L14T? The twin carbed version from the excellent?

Good to hear. Put up some pics of your little rocket

Hi,
Dad and i put an L16 in our 1200 coupe rallycar, its standard with twin carbs and a stumpy 5speed.
We made bigger trans tunnel notched the x-member and got a aluminium radiator made and put the thermo fan on the other side of the radiator.
It has quite alot of power and goes like a rocket

There's really bugger all difference in on-road performance between an L16 and L18 in a 1200. I've had L16, L18, and L20 in my old 1200.

Even though I like the A-series as I mentioned in the previous post the L18 is in a different league; a street L16 with 15 more HP even with the boost in torgue for me wouldn't be worth it but an L18 would make it worthwhile.

As for the weights: An H190 with alloy housing is going to weigh very close to the non alloy H145, You're taking 30lbs more for the gear box and maybe 60lb for the engine...........................100lbs tops. Upgrade to a lighter battery ( I saved 14lbs using a newer one meat for a Miata), headers, lighter flywheel, fiberglass hood etc and you could probably shave off 40 or 50lbs if it mattered to you.

Again I don't think there is a wrong choice A15 or L18. I like the revvy A-series because my racing started on buzz bomb 125cc GP bikes but it's hard not to love the grunt of an L18.


Tom

Just finished pulling apart a ca20e from a gazelle it weighs 34.5kg with maincaps bare lined with oil and crud. Nissan makes some light cast iron engines.

The bigger heavier box in the middle and bigger diff is a good thing for handling I would have thought as its all low hung weight. Most of the weight on L series is down low as heads are very light compared to other OHC donks.
BRE had some crazy L16 / L18 race donks that outlasted the others back in their day, even recently an L series 1600 just pipped a ca18de B10 in U2LSS. L series is still winning today :) - The A series is a good economy donk and had its success in Japan for enduros but for budget hp tq its pricey unless cleverly boosted.

I remember Baz of Datsport having some combo of L13 cranked long rod L20B on methanol that revved to 9.5-10k for close to 400+ hp in speedway w/ little work on internals & F1 like rod stroke ratio.

my L series 1200 had 53:47 weight distribution. That's better than they are standard with the A series.

If you up the rear axle and put the battery in the back, the L engine is still going to be fine. I think it would be hard to declare an A15 equal to an L16. You might be able to get the A15 and the L16 to the same horsepower points with the same effort, but the L16 has the advantage due to popularity. Plus, even if you DID get an A15 to a healthy high performance, you won't reliably be able to get the power to the ground; there isn't a bolt-in transmission to support it. The L series is simple; get an FS5W71B/C transmission and bolt it up. Done. No cut and shut, no adapter plate, nothing.

The A series has it's place. Plenty of folks build them and successfully race them. I just think that unless you get creative with your transmission options, you're driving a ticking time bomb.

Sure, L engine, bigger gearbox, stronger axle adds weight, but it also adds reliability.

Just my 2 cents, no need to get all emotional.

See my engine COmbo does make sense. Just need sort the set up but as you saw Dave much improved after Simon tuned it