Fitting R31 rear discs

You use the standard r31 caliper mounting bracket
One bolt hole lines up with the h165 or h190 disc/drum/axle flange bolt holes. so 3 new holes need to be drilled to suit.
Then you need to weld some plates to the inside of the caliper bracket centre hole so that it can retain the wheel bearing in the h165/h190 as the centre bore is only just smaller than the OD of the datsun wheel bearing.
Therefore it will technially retain the bearing but there isnt a whole heap of meat in the bracket doing this job so its best to ad some more.

Caliper offset is spot on by some fluke, and depending on whether your axles have a centre locator for the disc of not the disc or axle might need to be modified, either hole enlarger or axle locator made smaller

The handbrake cables are a little more tricky and i havent got around to doing that, just a matter of figureing out how to best adapt and modify the r31 cables and splitter to the 1200, or you just swap the r31 calipers out for vn-vs/vt or whenever they decided to go to a different rear caliper and run a hydro handbrake setup

Have done this setup for my car once upon a time and for adrians car

Pigdog, were both of those sedans?

yeah, have run the r31 calipers on the wagon too, cant remember exactly how close to the inner guard the calipers came, the handbrake holding bracket on the calipers comes very very close to the leaves though.

when i ran the r32 calipers on the sedan i had to cut a section out of the inner guard to clear the brake line out the back of the caliper

i would imagine the inner guards of a coupe would be very similar to a sedan or wagon

I've got a couple more ideas next time I get out to the shed before I give up.

Can you use a hydro handbrake on the road? I thought the hand brake had to be an independant (read: redundant) system. I may have made that up though. Can't remember where I read it.

handbrake cant be hydraulic for road, i've been reading the idea but havent had a chance to play with my car again yet

I rotated the brake mounts 180 deg tonight. So with the axels swapped left to right and the brackets setup so the handbrake lever points forward I think it'll be pretty good. Just need to move the soft mount for the handbrake cable. If I need to pull the cable in (since it'll go under the springs, I reckon some pulleys will do the job.

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  diff-brake-setup.jpg (172.89 KB)

Cool, what is the need for the pullys? And is the bleed nipple still able to be the highest point of the fluid section for bleeding?

Pulleys I'm thinking if the cable's too low or fouls on anything, but it should be fine, looks like it should just clear the spring perches. I was thinking I'd swap the brake line and bleed nipple or swap the brakes left to right to get the nipple on top.

I did as Piggy described when I did my R31 disks on a H165 housing a couple of years ago. Welded some doughnut shape rings in the centre of the R31 caliper mounts to retain the bearing more to my liking. I also ended up using calipers off a Commodore of about the same era as a R31, as I did not need the handbrake assembly type calipers. I did use the R31 caliper hangers though. The whole setup works very well. Pics attached.

Been thinking and looking at lamb-daqs brake flip. Do you think lowering blocks.
1.5" would make the handbrake linkage better or worse off for clearing the leafs?