Won't it make it worse as lifting brake nipples closer to the chassis rail/body?

With the brakes in the position I have them now the handbrake lever hangs down about 80mm and should just clear the springs/ brakets. I don't think it would fit around lowering blocks. With the hand brake lever pointing back it would be the same as without the blocks, just the diff's always closer to the body like anfam says.

(Those are nice looking braided lines Benny) Shiney.

True, my simplest solution is to just remove the lowering blocks I have.... But I am not willing to run it high just to clear brakes

If you want to pull the whole assembly apart and drill some new holes you could place the brakes how I have them but pull the handbrake assembly out of the drum and flip that as well. That might put it in the right spot. I guess if it's too much stuffing around it might be easier to get different brakes.

Can you get shorter bleed nipples off other type of brakes? It's only a bolt with a hole in it. Just makes harder to bleed

They are hitting in three places at the moment, not just the nipple. I'm liking that idea lamb-daq, might try on spare parts tonight under the house where its cool. Problem is it appears all solutions are a pain in the penis so I may as well use the ones I have if possible

Use the penis or parts you have at the moment

Quote:

Back when I was using the Bluebird rear brake setup, the bleed nipple would tap the chassis rail on certain type corners. I managed to stop it by heating up the chassis rail with some oxy and giving it a slight massage to get an extra 5mm or so clearance.

I had a good play around today.... None of the re-arrange ideas will work

Once again was that with the tool or the parts rc?

Might have to massage like Benny said for your happy ending