I have a cam that would be ideal.

It's a regrind from Wade.

I had it done about 15 years ago, and only used for about 5000 kms.

If I remember correctly it is a 30/70 and can be used with a single carby without idling to badly.

It made a noticeable improvement in performance.

Was keeping it incase I build a turbo L series, but I don't think I'll ever get round to it.

Will sell for $120 posted.

pm if interested.

I dunno if it would be of any interest - but you can make the shifts a bit quicker (not lightning quick or they'll start to break planetaries, though being in a lighter car you might be ok with it) for literally 1c. The same auto (generally speaking) is used in aussie valiants (some) and fords.

The fords and vals got 5 friction plates per clutch pack in the autos, whereas those put behind 4cylinders might only have 2-3. If you want bits to convert it (basically just thinner spacers) to the full 5, let me know, I've surely got enough spares floating around.

If the auto fails, rather than rebuilding that one, the best option is to get a bw51 (which is just an updated bw35) out of the first 3sp auto ea fords (should be in most wrecking yards for a song). you use most of the internals, which are a lot newer, so less wear and tear, and borg warner also made certain changes to make them stronger (including better support for the 2nd gear (or kickdown) band servo, which can literally rip itself apart from the trans case with harder shifts. additi9onally the front pump will be newer and capable of higher/optimal pressure even at lower rpms.

You can also change the rpms at which the trans will downshift when you manually select first (in std form, they'll do it at x rpm at zero throtle and y rpm at full throttle, you can change it to do a full throttle downshift to 1st at about 5-10% higher rpm/roadspeed with the same mod that tightens up the shifts.

It's called the '1c shift kit' simply because all that is needed is to place a 1c piece (if you can get em) to preload the primary regulator spring. This ups the line pressure and firms up the shifts. And it's about the limit of what they'll take. I've tried 2 stacked together and it broke internals fairly quickly then.

let me know if you want the 'how to' I did a step by step picture series for a couple of forums (moparmarket in particular) for aussie val owners. I've been 'threatening' to do the final version of the write up which also covers how to use the later bw51 trans, but in simple terms you use 90% of the 'guts' of the bw51, only needing (in most cases, though I haven't looked at the ones fitted to an l series, but could tell from a pic or two if you have them handy) the output shaft/governor and extension housing from the nissan spec bw35 to be swapped in there (which does require the trans to be dis-assembled) and then the bellhousing and convertor from the nissan at the 'front' end.

na the new sign writing will finish it off so it looks like a real race car....the kids are getting pretty excited now they can finally see a car, they started the project thinking a days work and they have this ready to race offroader so they got lost a little along the way but the new orange has certainly renewed the enthusiasm.

cant believe you painted it, that old sign writing looked #OOPS#ing awesome!!

Cool build tho!

Here is an update on the little Tilly, she's coming along nicely ready for sign writing now.

Attach file:

---

  IMG_0290.jpg (54.00 KB)

200b struts have spring platforms that don't fit in the towers, you have to cut them.off and weld on the 1200 or stanza ones.

200b are 40mm shorter than stanza struts. From memory.
get stanza with longer springs or reels the platforms higher up your existing struts if shock has enough travel .

thanks for the info guys, just what i am looking for. What about 200B struts, I've been told there longer too?

Stock l20b Cam is pretty much a sss Cam. Wade cams do good regrinds the 72 or 74 would be good but I went the 733a as IM Lpg and need low down vacuum signal

for the longer struts, try Sunny struts. They are the longest inserts I've seen, you could just re-oil them with some motorcycle fork oil & the wiki here has some suggestions for larger discs & calipers, usually S13 Sylvia. This conversion needs the Sunny lower control arms, steering arms,& ball joints, which should bolt into the 1200 front.
As for a cam I got a high lift 74 degree cam from Stewart Wilkins at his suggestion as a good compromise cam for rallying . This involved new springs, lash caps & lifters as well.

Can anyone suggest a cam, I was wondering about a SSS cam what are they like does anyone have one they want to sell?