best way I suppose is to support the engine & transmission with an engine crane & the mounts bolted to the motor & see how it all sits.
One big question is where do you live. Several members in Victoria/Melbourne have done the swap & can help, plus a few in Sydney. I was seriously thinking about offering you an A15, an A14 4 speed & a 3.7:1 diff ratio for your ute as a swap for that Sunny.
Good luck with the swap, keep posting the photos too.

I live in Kergunyah near albury on the Vic nsw border. It's a fair distance from anything haha

Well the ute motor is out, hopefully l18 will be lined up by tonight. Will post some pics tonight.
Next question is is it worth converting over the vaccum brake booster? The brakes in the ute were terrible before.
Also will the diff centre out of the sunny bolt into the ute diff housing?

No booster brakes not needed and Your Ute should have a h165 where sunny should have h150, so no won't swap

You may not "need" a booster, but if your brakes are terrible you need something!

Quote:If the brakes were terrible before, they will be terrible after fitting a booster. The booster only allows less leg pressure. Unless by "terrible" you meant too hard to push down on the brake pedal, in which case the booster will help.

The Sunny was advertised as having a H165 diff, so assuming your ute has one too, they'll swap. It also says the centre was welded, but I seem to remember offers to put an open centre in it before selling.
As for the brakes on the ute, are they discs or drums? The engineer would want discs of a cetain size, like those that came with the Sunny. Use the entire set up from strut top down through the steering arm, balljoint & the lower control arm, plus the castor arm. You can get away with no brake booster, if the master cylinder & the wheel cylinders are matched closely. I've had a 13/16 brake master cylinder on 200B PBR calipers with a beautifully light pedal. This was on a circuit car,though, a Datsun 1000 in fact. You might be told by the engineer to fit a booster as most people are now too weak to use unassisted brakes, or non-power steering. Use the booster off the Sunny, because it's there already.

Got a bit done. motor is ready to go in after a lot jacking up, checking, down, check up, check etc.
Had to pick out the gearbox mounts and made a mess so the interior will come out tomorrow and il weld it up. These things are made out of some crazy thin steel!
Ill make a new cross member and mount it to the folded chassis/frame? how have people done this before? weld a nut in there?
Ive also got issues when it comes to converting it to hydraulic clutch. ive pulled the one out of the sunny but struggling to find space to mount it on the ute. any tips or links to where to mount it would be awesome!
im hoping i can swap the diff centres or even just the flanges to avoid getting a tailshaft made. Considering converting the whole diff hosing if it has got bigger brakes?
Front struts and brakes will be converted out of sunny in to ute tomorrow or the next day. Will have to get some brake lines made though.
Cant get photos to work tonight. will try tomorrow.

Got some good and bad news.
Bad news is with the motor and box in position the rocker cover still sits about and 1" above the bonnet level and is on a pretty bad angle. Gearbox output is in a pretty good position so I'm thinking the motor needs to come down. Going to have to work some magic with the cross member or would crossmember spacers acceptable or dodgy?
The good news is I won't have to get tail shaft made as the two cars have the same diff centre flange!

Also any tips on how to easily post pics off an iPhone?

Bit late on an update but anyway..
For those that were wondering I got the conversion done in the two weeks minus a few little jobs. So its still sitting at home cos i thought it was just too risky for its real first drive would have been 5 hrs :/
I hoping to get home this weekend to fix up the last odd ends and then i can finally hit the streets.
the main issue was that the temp gauge did not seem accurate. I hooked up the 1200 temp gauge to the L18 sender and ran it for a while and it never got above cold?? the setup only runs a singular thermo fan with a dial switch that i can adjust but still, i would like a accurate reading in cab. so my question is are the resistances between the temp sender and the gauge all stuffed up? do i need to get an aftermarket one?
same thing with the oil pressure sender also??
i wanted to keep the cab neat and standard with no gauges but id rather be safe then sorry.

On a fun note i brought some stockies from a ta22 and some whitestripe flappers. should be cool and a bit more street friendly.
the ute was lowered with the struts from the sunny which had cut torana springs in them. its is now very low so any ideas on a reasonably stiff spring i can use to raise it back up a bit?

heres a few pics i took
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a ... am/image_zps6acbb3dc.jpeg
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a ... m/image1_zpsa3fd3e13.jpeg
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a ... m/image2_zpscdc340d4.jpeg

I had to change the sensor in the thermostat housing as mine read wrong too (hot though) with after market at a 240z generic sensor from bursons it's spot on.

righto. whats the best way to check it is corret?
also what radiator thermo viscous fan setup are you running?
mine is a 180b radiator with a single 18" thermo fan and no viscous fan. apparently it used to get hot in traffic when it was in the sunny because it runs rich or something.
Should i run twin thermos?