Good to see you got it close to finished. When I first ran my Sunny coupe I had problems with it overheating & blocking the cores of the radiator. It wasn't until I fitted a filter inside the top radiator hose that I got this under control, as every time it overheated, it brought more rubbish out of the block. When this was fixed, I noticed the problem with the standard temp guage in the car. On advice I used a standard A12 temp sender in the engine, which fitted in perfectly. Try grabbing the one from the original motor, but they sometimes cold weld themselves in & removing them destroys them. The part number I have for the new sender is TTS1065, though it's likely they'll have to order one in for you. As for the overheating in traffic, I was advised last friday it's more important to get air flow to the radiator. So if you can trim out the radiator support panel to expose more of the radiator core, this will help.
With my ongoing L20B swap, I'm using a Stanza 2 core radiator that I've rebent the sides where it bolts to the support panel, so it sits hard up against the panel, rather than have a big gap. Hopefully I'll be able to fit a slim 12 inch thermofan between the radiator & the water pump, which I'll control with an N12 pulsar switch installed in either the lower tank or lower radiator hose.

second the A12 sender. I had the same issues with my L16 I had it overheat (blew its juice) on less then half temp. Changed it for an old A12 sender i had under the house and it sits at around 1/3 all the time. should screw straight in. Will probably be the easiest fix you ever have to do!

how come we cant see the pics right here outright. it redirects the browser to some other page?? (which takes a while to load!!)

awesome. Thats exactly what i was hoping to hear. i got rid of the old motor so ill just get a new temp sender.
Ive cut out most of the radiator support already in order to get the radiator to fit so air flow should be good. my thermo is on the front of the radiator pushing air through. would it work better on the back pulling it through?

The first time i tried to upload photos it didnt work so i just did it the other way. Just tried to upload. Still doesnt work, so id say its something to do with my computer. If any body has some ideas im more then willing to try.

If your using photobucket copy and paste the link that has IMG at the beginning and end then change the IMG to img (upper case to lower case).

Otherwise if you want to copy from your computer when you hit reply below the box you type in you will see Choose File. Hit that then find the file ( i usually put them in a specific folder on my desktop).

When you choose the file then hit upload to the right of Choose file (file must be less than 200kb). Repeat that process till your done then hit Submit as usual.

P.S dont tick the boxes of uploaded files it will delete them. Cheers hope that helps i can talk you through an example over the phone if your stuck. Cheers Andrew

Got it working. theyre going to be big but. Hope that doesnt slow it down. Ill make them small from now on.

Much much better. You see, posting pics correctly is not rocket science!!!

I'm going to be doing this conversion. In the process of collecting parts. Can you document a bit more how you did it all? Cheers.

DatsunBeginner, unfortunately i was in a mad rush when do the conversion so i didnt get many photos. Im probly not the best person to tell you about it. But ill give you a basic run down.
I brought the L18 and dog leg 5 speed already in a sunny which ment the sump and pickup had already been changed to stanza gear (i think more slim line, hence better for the tight 1200).
I then cut the mounts off a stanza crossmember and welded them on to a blank 1200 crossmember, with great difficulty trying to make the motor sit as low as possible
A lot of panel beating of the start of the trans tunnel and made a gearbox crossmember and cut a an inch or two back from the gearstick hole in the tunnel and it was in. Radiator is an issue cos there isnt much room. mine has 180b radiator with thermo cos there is no room for a viscous fan. yet to see how well that works. Got a stanza tailshaft shortened. made an exhaust. lucky the extractors that came on motor just fit (tight around the steering arm). wired fuel etc and it ran.
If it goes hard and i like it I plan to cut the tunnel out and put in a bigger one, cos at the moment it is tight on the speedo cable and sensor wiring. Do a bit more work on cross member cos is only got about 10mm clearence. its only got the standard diff in it so it will be interesting to see how that goes.
It is pretty straight forward but i will warn you it is tight! If you are going to do it properly the first time, definitely go a bigger tunnel. Also L18 goes in easiest from underneath i reckon.
Thats about all i can think of for now. but if youve got an question ill have a go at answering them.

If your using stanza diff you must have a h165 diff in the Ute, will be fine with the L18
The stanza either has h165 it bw68 anyway as stock l16