awesome. Thats exactly what i was hoping to hear. i got rid of the old motor so ill just get a new temp sender.
Ive cut out most of the radiator support already in order to get the radiator to fit so air flow should be good. my thermo is on the front of the radiator pushing air through. would it work better on the back pulling it through?

The first time i tried to upload photos it didnt work so i just did it the other way. Just tried to upload. Still doesnt work, so id say its something to do with my computer. If any body has some ideas im more then willing to try.

how come we cant see the pics right here outright. it redirects the browser to some other page?? (which takes a while to load!!)

second the A12 sender. I had the same issues with my L16 I had it overheat (blew its juice) on less then half temp. Changed it for an old A12 sender i had under the house and it sits at around 1/3 all the time. should screw straight in. Will probably be the easiest fix you ever have to do!

Good to see you got it close to finished. When I first ran my Sunny coupe I had problems with it overheating & blocking the cores of the radiator. It wasn't until I fitted a filter inside the top radiator hose that I got this under control, as every time it overheated, it brought more rubbish out of the block. When this was fixed, I noticed the problem with the standard temp guage in the car. On advice I used a standard A12 temp sender in the engine, which fitted in perfectly. Try grabbing the one from the original motor, but they sometimes cold weld themselves in & removing them destroys them. The part number I have for the new sender is TTS1065, though it's likely they'll have to order one in for you. As for the overheating in traffic, I was advised last friday it's more important to get air flow to the radiator. So if you can trim out the radiator support panel to expose more of the radiator core, this will help.
With my ongoing L20B swap, I'm using a Stanza 2 core radiator that I've rebent the sides where it bolts to the support panel, so it sits hard up against the panel, rather than have a big gap. Hopefully I'll be able to fit a slim 12 inch thermofan between the radiator & the water pump, which I'll control with an N12 pulsar switch installed in either the lower tank or lower radiator hose.

righto. whats the best way to check it is corret?
also what radiator thermo viscous fan setup are you running?
mine is a 180b radiator with a single 18" thermo fan and no viscous fan. apparently it used to get hot in traffic when it was in the sunny because it runs rich or something.
Should i run twin thermos?

I had to change the sensor in the thermostat housing as mine read wrong too (hot though) with after market at a 240z generic sensor from bursons it's spot on.

Bit late on an update but anyway..
For those that were wondering I got the conversion done in the two weeks minus a few little jobs. So its still sitting at home cos i thought it was just too risky for its real first drive would have been 5 hrs :/
I hoping to get home this weekend to fix up the last odd ends and then i can finally hit the streets.
the main issue was that the temp gauge did not seem accurate. I hooked up the 1200 temp gauge to the L18 sender and ran it for a while and it never got above cold?? the setup only runs a singular thermo fan with a dial switch that i can adjust but still, i would like a accurate reading in cab. so my question is are the resistances between the temp sender and the gauge all stuffed up? do i need to get an aftermarket one?
same thing with the oil pressure sender also??
i wanted to keep the cab neat and standard with no gauges but id rather be safe then sorry.

On a fun note i brought some stockies from a ta22 and some whitestripe flappers. should be cool and a bit more street friendly.
the ute was lowered with the struts from the sunny which had cut torana springs in them. its is now very low so any ideas on a reasonably stiff spring i can use to raise it back up a bit?

heres a few pics i took
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a ... am/image_zps6acbb3dc.jpeg
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a ... m/image1_zpsa3fd3e13.jpeg
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a ... m/image2_zpscdc340d4.jpeg

Got some good and bad news.
Bad news is with the motor and box in position the rocker cover still sits about and 1" above the bonnet level and is on a pretty bad angle. Gearbox output is in a pretty good position so I'm thinking the motor needs to come down. Going to have to work some magic with the cross member or would crossmember spacers acceptable or dodgy?
The good news is I won't have to get tail shaft made as the two cars have the same diff centre flange!

Also any tips on how to easily post pics off an iPhone?

Got a bit done. motor is ready to go in after a lot jacking up, checking, down, check up, check etc.
Had to pick out the gearbox mounts and made a mess so the interior will come out tomorrow and il weld it up. These things are made out of some crazy thin steel!
Ill make a new cross member and mount it to the folded chassis/frame? how have people done this before? weld a nut in there?
Ive also got issues when it comes to converting it to hydraulic clutch. ive pulled the one out of the sunny but struggling to find space to mount it on the ute. any tips or links to where to mount it would be awesome!
im hoping i can swap the diff centres or even just the flanges to avoid getting a tailshaft made. Considering converting the whole diff hosing if it has got bigger brakes?
Front struts and brakes will be converted out of sunny in to ute tomorrow or the next day. Will have to get some brake lines made though.
Cant get photos to work tonight. will try tomorrow.

The Sunny was advertised as having a H165 diff, so assuming your ute has one too, they'll swap. It also says the centre was welded, but I seem to remember offers to put an open centre in it before selling.
As for the brakes on the ute, are they discs or drums? The engineer would want discs of a cetain size, like those that came with the Sunny. Use the entire set up from strut top down through the steering arm, balljoint & the lower control arm, plus the castor arm. You can get away with no brake booster, if the master cylinder & the wheel cylinders are matched closely. I've had a 13/16 brake master cylinder on 200B PBR calipers with a beautifully light pedal. This was on a circuit car,though, a Datsun 1000 in fact. You might be told by the engineer to fit a booster as most people are now too weak to use unassisted brakes, or non-power steering. Use the booster off the Sunny, because it's there already.