I`ve never really had any issues with it on hot days (we don`t get that many in Tas.)

I have lifted the bonnet about an inch at the rear (drift style)and this lets a shed load of heat out.

It is also fitted with a three row radiator core.

I was under the impression the strombergs had issues with E85 on some seals compared to SUs but maybe thinking of late bike carbs with the plastic floats. Whats the powerband like?

How has beejj setup gone got it running yet

Engine still in shop machine work is nearly done.
I havent put pressure on them as I have been busy with body work
Will post updates for sure

Ok so motor is back from the shop.
Its sitting on my bench in cling wrap waiting for me to drop it into one of the dats...

I still have to sort out both dats engine bays but I have started planning/mocking up the turbo setup on a old head clamped to bench...

Here are some pics:







This is the log manifold Chris made for me and a H91 standard inlet manifold with the heat soak that is normally on the bottom connecting to exhaust header removed. I'm thinking this is the best option and I'll seal top normal inlet. Only minor grinding was required to get the H91 to fit with the log (see centre of H91 in 2nd pic).
The turbo is the S13, this wont be the turbo I'm using but of the turbos I have atm this was the only one with the outlet at the right spot for the mock up...

I think this is going to work sweet!

Alright guys!
Lots to report on my dat, I have painted it, assembled 95% of everything, eng is in and started with standard manifolds and carbie

Planning to try to mock up turbo setup this weekend.

Can someone give me some help with turbo coolant lines?
Basically wondering where is best to tee back in from turbo coolant out back into 1200 cooling system
Guessing teeing off the heater in flow hose is where you get the supply from, where is best to put back in?

Thanks

Quote:Where Nissan teed back any coolant lines was the suction pipe. Heater hose goes back to there, water-heated manifold goes back to there.

If you currently have one- or none- inlet suction pipe, replace with a two-inlet suction pipe

one-inlet suction pipe



two-inlet suction pipe



You can also add a B110-style suction tee into the lower radiator hose

Ok I pick the car up from the tuners today. Unfortunately I dont have any dyno figures as his dyno isnt calibrated and he only uses it to tune.

Currently I'm running 8psi straight off wastegate as the motor is new and I need to run it in. I have some helpful info for others considering SU drawthrough.

The needle that I purchased from SU midel that the gentlemen did a "best guess" was actually a really good guess. The needle profile worked and didnt require any filing or modifying.

The needle I'm using is a BCA

here is an excellent website that visually maps the fuel profiles of needles:
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

I am speaking to the turner this arvo on pickup and will confirm spring, oil etc for others

Ok here is more info & pics

here is the HS6 SU setup




into turbo




and another




Turbo is a T25 Garrett KTT .48 AR front and rear
it comes on boost around 3000 rpm and is currently running wastegate pressure of 8psi as Im running the new motor in.

I have an A14 with turbo cam, pistons and rings. H89 head, turbo head gasket and arp studs with double valve springs

SU is a rebuild HS6 running BCA needle profile and the "turbo" spring from SU midel with standard SU oil also from SU midel.
Dizzy is recurved 12-26 degrees

I still have heaps to do but its running and driveable.

Looks good. What is a turbo head gasket?

* T25 Garrett KTT .48 AR (stock CA18DET turbo)
* HS6 (1-3/4 inch) carburetor (e.g. from a Volvo)
* #CUD1148 NEEDLE (BCA) $14.50
* #BDR125S Damper Oil SAE 20 $14.90
* "turbo" spring - is this the Yellow 8-oz spring?