Picture of the underside, curved pan and some very small pieces of flat steel to lead to flange.

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Looks just like the one on page 7, great work. Looks like you've spread the two middle runners a bit to avoid fouling the mounts.

DJF280 is on the money, The reason to use plate and not build a tubular merger is cost. And either way a tubular merger would push the turbo out at least another 80mm.......into the strut.

I have thought about scalloping the tower to allow more room but I'm not that keen on that idea at the moment.

Nice workmanship for an equal length Datsgold.
Due to the firing order 1-3-4-2 using a divider
its best to pair up 1-4 and 2-3 as Simon says.

I think he means like this collector on the manifold I have just made

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Hi clyons8, I think sikyne was asking why don't you merge the 4 pipes tapering to the flange plate, rather than using plate as a box section to merge to the flange. Well if that's not what sikyne ment then maybe I should not butt in. Merging the 4 into 1 with a smooth flowing collector will require more work. Just spotted how close the turbo is to the strut tower, How much clearance do you have to the tower? And what size turbo is that t25 T28??

clyons8
that looks like my manifold I made , it works realy good. get rid of the divider you nead all those ex gases building up speed as quick as to spin the turbo to stop lag

clyons8,
keep up the A-series stuff coming mate!
are u able to sell or point buyers where to buy whatever else is needed to run ur setups?
so more like a package..

cheers

I'd be interested in maybe buying a mid range one if you send one to Simon to test maybe I could buy on of the 3 tester styles even if its not the best will still do for what I may have planed

Thanks for the encouragement!

To test how they perform I was actually going to see if you would be interested in testing three different types on your dyno, all I can do here is start and run them but the closest dyno centre is thousands of kilometres away. Perhaps we could sort out an arrangement Simon? I'm happy to pay for the testing if you are able to provide a controlled platform on which the manifolds could be fitted.

As for the RHS I'm a bit confused what you are asking, I used 3mm plate to build the shroud that leads to the flange, the pipe is big stuff at 42od so I really haven't got much movement. If I had some tighter, lighter bends I would be able to move them around a bit more.

The baffled divider was a fluke being that long, I left it there.

Great work. Encouraging A series turbo builds can only be a good thing!

Why are using RHS for where the turbo flange meets the runners? It would be better if you blended the runners at the plate.

I also see it has a divider plate inside the flange. If using a divided housing turbo, cylinders 1 and 4 should be one side of the plate and 2 and 3 the other to help spool and prevent reversion.

Have you tried one yet?

Keep up the good work.