It is a lacquer based flat black spray paint. Will take a pic of it for you.

sparVar paint

Bought some new LED's for the dash lights, T4 and T10. I went with a light with a frosted cover for the T10's. The seller on eBay has 100's of types.

http://www.ebay.com/usr/3c-made-in-ch ... ksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

Some comparo photos

T10 is used for the dash illumination. T10 means Tubular bulb, 10mm diameter.

T10 bulbs come in different wattage and socket bases, the stock ones are 1.7w for round gauge dash (Bulb Type 161, W2.1x9.5d base), and 3.5w for square gauge dash (Bulb Type 158, W2.1x9.5d base). W2.1x9.5d is known in USA as "Miniature Wedge".

These are the ones I bought for my aussie gauge cluster, as you said they may differ for USA

"10X White BA9S 57 W6W 4 1210 LED License Plate Light Map Bulb Dome Lamp K012" = tacho lights and top of gauge cluster

"10X White 1 Soft LED Ceramics chips T10 W5W Wedge Side Light Car Bulb Lamp A143" = illumination lights, oil/high beam/charge/brake

Those are the same for USA and JDM.
* Type 57 = G14 glass with BA9S/W6W base 3.4 watt (1.7 watt is stock)
* Type 194 = T10 glass with T5/W5W base 1.0 watt
* Type 161 = T10 glass with T5/W5W base 2.7 watt

How do the Soft-frosted wedge bulbs perform? Are they are bright as the originals?

I haven't wired up the ute yet, still working on installing all the wiring and also yet to get a battery relocation kit and the isolator that datsa73 recommended so I am still a long way off from seeing how they perform. But I will surely post some photos when the time comes.

Good on ya. The isolator is handy, as it gives you a place up front the jump-start the vehicle. Also a place to attach the Fusible Link.

Be sure to run the long POS cable where it won't get damaged from underneath (say if you run over something) or wear against any parts of the car. A short in that big thick cable can burn the car down to the pavement.

Yea jump starting from underneath the ute (with the lowered suspension) would be a pain!

Good point about safety. Would you suggest putting the POS cable in a plastic conduit tube to be safe? I will probably be running it behind the cab under the tray and then into the cab under the driver's seat and up through the hole where the bonnet release cable goes (i will be using racing pins instead on the bonnet) and attaching to the strut tower isolater just like in the photo from datsa73.

I do not recommend a conduit, but instead careful routing. If going through the cabin use proper grommits where it goes through the sheetmetal. Make sure it is fastened securely so it doesn't move and rub the insulation bare over time.

Some guys say to use a 150 amp circuit breaker at the battery, like Summit sells. However traditionally no fuse or breaker is used in a battery relocation.