Yes, my ute was missing that clip and I tried very hard to find a replacement online and through the Datsun community but everyone told me to use a snap ring instead. I can't take full credit for that one. I still would eventually like to replace it with the proper part.

Going to do some measurements on my struts and diff today and report back my findings.

Trying to discover if my struts are 1200 coupe or something else.

Same with diff. H145 or something else.

Okay did some research on the struts. Trying to plan for what to do with my front brakes.

The tube is 45mm wide.
The number on the strut is: 54303 H7405 AMPCO

A search on the web tells me they are 120y struts. Is this correct?

I was assuming 1200 coupe struts with disc brakes. I was beginning to research replacement parts but now I am in a bit of a roadblock. The calipers that came with the car look really poor and I have no idea if they are any good. I was just going to assume I need new calipers and hardware for the brakes. Whats your guys opinion here?

Left side strut



Measurement



Brake rotor about 8.5" wide



Right side strut



Measurement



Brake rotor about 8.5" wide



Strut ID markings



Calipers that came with car - unknown type

Also did some measurements on the diff carrier.

Hoping to identify the diff for once and for all.

Spacing of holes on the diff flange is 45mm x 54mm

Photo of diff

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Okay I believe I adjusted the steering bush following the instructions posted from the Nissan manual.

Took the play out of the steering box by adjusting the locknut/screw (as posted before)

I measured the distance between the column bushing and the thrust washer and it was 2mm

I backed off the column bushing to around 1.0mm to 0.5mm (the thrust washer isn't perfectly flat so it was hard to get a perfect reading)

Replaced the snap ring with a new one

Loosened the thrust washer and snap ring

I put a dimple in the top of the jacket tube where it meets the markings on the column bushing.

Also caulked the other 3 markings on the column bushing with some silicone.

While I was at it, I also caulked the "security" screws on the steering lock that were previously broken off so that they don't rattle around while driving or back out.

Pics in order of assembly:

Old snap ring vs new one

H74 (120Y) struts are exactly the same as B110 Coupe struts but with larger spindles and bigger diameter brakes.

The calipers look fine to me. They have stainless steel (or maybe chrome-plated) pistons (twin pistons), so they may be OK. If you can squeeze the piston down they'll be OK. Just clean them up around the sliding areas, so the yoke slides free and the pins slide free.

These are the sliding surfaces (pins and yoke)

There are two pistons, the one on the back is not obvious, but it allows the yoke to move outwards along the sliding surface. The inner piston squeezes on the inside brake pad.

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H74 brakes are the largest size that will fit under 12" rims. its two size bigger than the late Sunny Truck brakes

The Lucas Girling Annette 18 caliper works like this.
#15 is the Yoke

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Thanks DD. I think I understand the principle. So one piston moves the entire yoke and the outer brake pad into the surface of the disc - while the other piston just moves the inner pad into the disc?

Is there any way to test if the pistons are seized? Can I move them with a C clamp or something to test them?

I would hate to buy new pads and hardware and assemble them and find out down the track that they are no good.

Also did you see my post about the diff? I think it may be an H165 after all since it has the 45 x 54mm bolt hole spacing?

You understand correctly

To test the pistons, use your hand to push the piston in. If it moves, is not stuck, that's good. You only need a c-clamp if the brake lines are connected and bled and preventing the piston from moving