It's only flat pieces of iron -- easy to make, drill some holes, bend two angles

Good point, i think i could do it.

So the question is, make a bent mount and bolt through the sides of the tunnel or make a flat plate mount and bolt through the floor as originally planned?

I was going to reinforce the flat mount method with plates inside the cabin. Should i do the same on the cabin side of the transmission tunnel? Might clash with the seats?

Build update on the Vanilla Ice ute.

A long time ago I had bought a Nissan Sentra radiator and never got around to fitting it or trying to fit it.










I bought Nissan Altima top mounts and modified them by pounding them flat and trimming off some excess steel. Bolted those to the top of the radiator support panel with some 8mm bolts.




The bottom, well there is a square hollow steel section that runs between each of the radius rod supports that the previous owner fabricated. This worked out for me because it was perfect for mounting the radiator on the bottom. I planned on using the Sentra bottom mount bushings (purchased on eBay) but I would have had to drill out most of the steel. Instead I drilled a 5/8" hole and fitted a rubber hose to the bottom up the radiator to "float" inside the hollow steel section. I shimmed it with some rubber grommets to absorb any road vibration. Not a fancy looking mount by any means but it will hopefully work fine. Also hope that the transmission cooler blockage fittings I made in the radiator don't leak either.

(Got a pair of Sentra bottom mount bushings for offer if anyone wants to try for their build.)







Had to trim some of the brackets off of the radiator to clear the fan. Still need to see if they all clear okay.

Obviously by the photos you can tell the radiator support panel was modified quite a bit so it was not an option to mount the radiator on this panel at all.




Next was the washer bag and piping. Wired up and ready to go. I bought an aftermarket nozzle from a Datsun 620 ($10 for 2) because the original B110 one is so expensive online.




Room lamp and switches wired up.

Next big step was fitting the dash. If you go a few pages back in the thread you will see I did all of the big work already prefitting things like the fascia, gauges, glove box, heater controls, etc...




Dash turned out great.







Heater all wired up. I had to repair the plastic where both cables pull from and I epoxied some metal tabs on to fix this.




Steering column cover mounted and hazard switch wired up.

All underdash wiring connected (as best I can tell) some wires are a mystery.




Valve cover breather hose connected




Horn and grounding wires fitted




New heater hoses fitted and connected to heater.

Found a throttle cable bracket for the pedal but the throttle cable is very loose and stretchy. Need a fix for this.

Battery, some gasoline, and some buckets of water and I should be able to run the engine from the ignition switch for a little while and flush out the engine before I fit the radiator hoses.

Nice work, radiator looks like it belongs there

Isn't the 620 washer nozzle identical to the 1200 nozzle?

Do you recall which years Sentra that's for? And whether 1.6 or SR20DET engine? Should cool your A quite well

Quote:You could remove those and it still won't leak. There is no fluid connection from the radiator part to the transmission cooler part of the radiator. But it looks better with them capped off

Did it take 2 620 nozzles? Here's the 1200 washer nozzle

Radiator info:

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
1996 NISSAN SENTRA 1.6L L4
SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT CU1178 Radiator $ 58.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 58.79
Shipping Ground $ 13.28
Order Total $ 72.07

Washer nozzle info:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WINDSHIELD-WA ... :ZGwAAOSwZ1BXfvq-&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the info on the trans cooler fittings.

I hacksawed them off for a much more cleaner look. The fan will clear fine now.

hoses cut off



More clearance





Decided to fit a NOS radiator overflow catch can. Should give at least 30 more horsepower!






Okay. Trial fit some seat belts I bought. Originally came from a 620 or 720. I am not sure where the metal plate at the end of the belt is supposed to attach to?

Secondly. The belts are full retracted and they do not loosen very well at all. I might have to ditch these and buy a modern seat belt. I would feel much safer. Has anyone ever successfully fit a modern belt from a Hyundai, Toyota, etc...? Or a cheapo car like a Ford Escort?

Whoa, I thought for a minute that was a cut-off finger!


The metal plate attaches to the floor (on yours, the shoulder buckle is backwards, maybe swapped right to left?). Here are the belts in my 1200. As I recall the 620 has two bolts holes near the floor while the 1200 has only one

Attach file:

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  620 seat belts.jpg (171.72 KB)

Like the rad overflow can.
My wipers are removed so I have no washer. This winter that hole in the hood will be a great spot for the Nitrous purge. One of my unfinished items.