You guys have to realise that those guidelines in the Datsun Competition Manual are for off road use... As a certifying engineer I get very wary of people chopping the struts towers apart, to get camber changes. I know there is a certain pose factor with adjustable strut tops but it pays to have them installed by professionals. If the unspeakable happens and you and your baby are in an accident your insurance won't be voided by some arsehole insurance guy claiming you have" dangerous or unauthorised modifications". My road Datto has a redrilled crossmember and has the old holes filled up. Doing it this way is stealthy and is difficult to detect if you get my drift as certification can get costly.......

Wow, your Safety Certificate Inspections make our smog inspections seem nice.
I was a bit aprehensive when i did this mod to my old 1200. I would constantly check to see if anything was cracking or distorting. About 8yrs later, I was t-boned in an intersection. The next day, brused and limping, i checked out the car. I was surprised to find that the right side mount (direct hit) was ok and the left side was bent but didn't break through.
I still would not mind having something a little more robust , than just cut and grinding.
I posted some pics under Ang94541

Quote:I would be very surprised if any engineer approved this mod for road use in QLD. Certainly would need to be mod plated, any mechanic who saw this during a Safety Certificate inspection would fail it on the spot unless there was a mod plate with the appropriate code engraved on it.

To get approval, you would at least have to grind the rolled edge down and plate the strut top, or better yet, cut and shut the whole original section 9/16" inwards. Of course if you really wanted to, I guess you could just cover up the evidence with a strut brace

today i tryed this out on my spare 1200 and it was a piece of piss. is there any other mods that need to be done after this? does anybody know if this mod is legal for road use?
thanx it's been a great help.
DAVE

I did it with out the blueprint. I used a scribe and a scale/ruler and marked the slots for the bolts first. I sort of freehanded the area to be removed from the big hole. I drilled 8mm holes at the other end of the slots and ground out the rest.
The big hole takes a little bit longer to cut out. I would check to see if the bolts would slide all the way over and grind. Check, and grind somemore.
The top mount has to get cut or it will hit the inside of the tower before it slides all the way over. This piece is a triangle, I just cut off one side( not including the bolts!) about 10-12mm.
I dont have a pic, sorry, i hope this made sense.

have any of you tryed to do this modification using this blueprint?? is it fairly easy?
DAVE

strut tower mod
I scanned that part of the blueprint. I hope this ties you over till i get the whole thing scanned.
You also have to cut the upper spring perch for clearance or it will hit the tower and you won't be able to slide it over that far. The book says you may need to file it down,p 4. It's more like cut off.

ok i found the most practial way but not the cheapest($400) i went to repco and they sell top camber adjustment they are basicly a two plates togetha and they slide back and fourth giving you camber adjustment all i had to do was the bolt spacing and machine a nut to the right size ill try and find a picture

Today I decided to go and get the blueprints scanned. I figured, instead of waiting to meet with my friend, at his work, on a Saturday, if/when he's available, I'll just go and pay to get them scanned. I figured that it wouldnt be expensive, and I would like to have them on a CD anyway.
That b1tch said "$3.50 per sq.ft. and that's 12 sq.ft per side. So you're lookin at $84"
So I left.

I can assure you that the information on 2 sides of a 3foot by 4foot piece of paper will not fit in the sidelines of the book.
I'll get off my ass and see about scanning the blueprints.