well done mate top effort :)

Hi, if those adjustable radius rods are a modified 1200 item I hate to tell you this but they break!For your own safety I would strongly recommend not using them. The correct ( and in my opinion only ) way to do this properly is to have a spherical bearing or rod end at the end of the radius rod- that way it all moves freely.
I have had one let go fortunately at low speed and the little 'pedestal' that connects to the sway bat just kept the wheel in check enough to stop.
I have seen the result of one letting go at high speed and it was not pretty.
Cheers
Dave

B110sss, when u fitted ur units did u tighten them with the weight on the suspension or with it in the air??

There is a right way and a wrong way to extend the thread on the castor arms. If the thread has been roll formed it will be as strong as the standard arm. If the thread has been cut, it will probably fail sooner or later. Being Maddat items, I'm sure they've been done right.

214KW at the wheels .... nice

Demacoz yep is mad fun, when I learn to drive it will be even better.
B110sss as l18_b110 has said these are maddat items the castor/radias rods, they are almost twice as thick plus they are forged as well, will outlast the rails on the car :)
Flatto it's good fun will be out at sandown and Phillip Island in the coming month for some circuit time :)

Here's a build thread to see how it got here if you want to read through the crap
http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/v ... =ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

It would have been on jacks, thus in the air.
Harry has probably hit the nail on the head as to the problem as the thread was cut and extended on standard radius rods.
However my engineer picked straight up on the problem- its the angle that have changed ( running 3odd degrees negative camber and 4 positive castor )thus stressing the radius rod.
His solution was to remove the factory mounts in the front chassis rail and rebuild some new ones in the 'correct' position and to use a rod end at the end of the radius rod. This works great and it all moves freely.
Pit Road have a similar setup but they use the standard factory mounting points.
Cheers
Dave

So I blew my clutch and have now replaced it with a 6 puck button clutch, I then realised that there was a lot of free play in the diff and it was noisy so we removed the plug to change oil and found lumps :( so I now will be fitting another center with a little more weld :)
Off to a dyno day Sunday so will see how I go :)

Diff fixed, brakes blead, ready for dyno day