posted by
unfamilia on 5/27 14:33 GMT
Ok pulled carbs out and adjusted the floats up or down to try and get around 55 ml per float bowl give or take up to 5ml.
been reading tuning manuals not blogs to try understand these things better.
ive identified the carbs now as 38x4 mikuni bdst im 90% certain.
they arent a true verticle down draught abd sit b on an angle of about 45-50 deg verticle. So shoukd work with right manifold angles and float settings.
Cyl 1 I made float come up more about 2ml travel now
cyl 2 came up about .5mm maybe
cyl 3 I brought down a hair
cyl 4 brought down about .5mm
I did this due to more fuel cyl 3 and 4 when I measured them due to manifold slant on motor I think. So floats can adjust to compensate slightly.
I also noted where the fuel level lines where in tge float bowls.
As the carbs sit at 45deg approx the seals at the base are always partially submereged and wet.
floats done- couldn't start it up to test at 11pm so made my other adjudtments relating to the suspected leaning out and detonation
redilled the main jets to 1.8mm while bowls were open as the car leaned out at 5000rpm last test at wot.
also had leaning out in the mid range so I raised the needles to the bottom clip position. Yes bike carbs have adjustable jet needles for mixture from 1/8 throttke to 3/4 throttle.
I dropped needles to lowest position but also used 2 washers to drop the equivalent of another clip.

this is a known test method to see if you need thinner needle so it allows more fuel in past the needke jet that the jet needle slides out of when the cv slide pulls up under vacum.
See washers
see jet needle in the middle of throat under the slide

needle jet when looking into to throat of carb like air would

theoretically you are supposed to lean off the main jet when you richen the jet needle position but both parts of that part of rev range were lean
so trial and error til dyno. Rather a bit richer currently.