Are you sure it's not just tyre wall deflection, as in the photo on page 2. If the rim is moving laterally inside the tyre, due to soft sidewalls, insufficient air pressure, etc, the car will seem to be slaloming from the back by itself. I had this happen with some 245/515x13 slicks on 7 inch rims, if the tyre prssure was too low. Looking at the 2 outside rear tyres on Harrys' cars, in both instances the rim is pretty much in line with the side wall of the tyre. As the tyre you use seem to be a Hoosier, I've found them to be weak in the sidewalls ( a mate uses them on his hillclimb openwheeler) & crossply's. It might just need a few more PSI to make a difference. It's also a bit cheaper to change than fabricating major suspension bits.

Quote:

or could be your just a better driver..

many a cars ive seen where the driver is the difference!

so despite "fancy" parts the driver couldn't drive to full potenianal...
esp if the parts are track proven by provider over many many years of track experience.

and btw,l18_b110,

that coupe sure looks the goods mate

awesome!

B310gx, I've been using the Hoosiers since 2011 and run them at the same tire pressure I always have. When I installed the H190 I likely got something wrong. I am perfectly willing to play with tire pressures on the Hoosiers BUT when I bought the latest set of tires, the tire guy convinced me to try a set of Avon ACB9's as we think they may have some benefits.

As for fabbing up parts it is not a big deal, I have some links left form the sports racer that happen to be very close to the right length.

On the fancy parts versus driver talent, I have always felt that it's good to at least start with a basic car so that the driver has to dig for it.


Tom

Could it be that the h190 leaf spring mounts are 15mm further apart than the h145? So the leaf pack isnt compressing or rebounding straight up and down as intended?.

UPDATE

OK we inspected everything:

First it appears that the washer on top of the sway bar busing/end link is brushing the chassis rail, read the rail comes to rest on top of the washer. There is a few millimeters of the outer edge of the washer that is scuffed and that lines up with the chassis. On the chassis rail there is an abrasion on the radius that runs up the side a few millimeters. While this is not a smoking gun I have shortened the end link so it will no longer foul the rail.

Second I have a second pair of Koni shocks that are newer 80-2359 (old ones are 80-1977) which I will fit as they are in better shape. I plan to get a hold of a set of dampers that I can adjust both the compression and rebound. In the meantime I have marked the Konis in 1/4 turn increments and I will play with them.

There were some other things that could be better such as the rear spring shackles so I'll square those away as we'll.

With all that said we did NOT fit a panhard bar. My fabricator wanted to take care of the various things that need tidying first and then reevaluate. We also discussed that other 1200s were not experiencing this and that did factor into it, so thanks.

Tom

if you're doing the rear shackles, consider sliders instead if the class allows them. Consistent spring rate with no jacking/anti-jacking (if installed correctly), and better lateral location.