Good luck. looks like you've made a good start.

I'll be watching in interest

If anyone is on facebook i have created a profile for my build and am adding more detailed updates on a more regular basis. So please feel free to add as a friend. Just search Trav's Datto and send me a friend request.

I will still try and add an update with pics every week or so on here too.

Datsunbeginner i am going to go either white or green. I will keep looking for different wheel options. Not set on TRX rims but still not discounting them completely.

Thanks Demacoz.

Cheers
Trav

I'm bummed that you're primarily using Facebook when the majority of Datsun 1200 fans are here.

But anyway you are making a good start of your project. Looking forward to more piccies.

Sorry Dave. Im loyal to this site and would be updating here all the time but it is a bit of a hassle uploading pics on here because of the whole resizing thing whereas it is just so easy to upload pics from my phone directly onto facebook anytime. I have to transfer my pics onto my pc, resize them then upload them to get them on here which is a bit more of a hassle.

As i said though i will do a weekly report on here with heaps of pics as i go.

Cheers
Trav

Quote:

I just use an old digital camera for posting anything on sites/ebay/internet etc
You can select around 600 x 400 pixles and they load up a perfect size
I know a phone is always there but the resizing is a hassle

Finished removing the radiator support panel and front chassis beam. You can see by the difference between the smoothness inside the chassis rail on the passengers side compared to the little corrosion holes on the drivers side the effect the water has had. Lucky it can all be rust treated and will be fine. Also the bottom of the chassis beam just disintegrated on the passenger side when i pulled it out as shown. My next step here is to get the replacement beam fabricated and find a decent MIG welder to borrow. I have taken out the struts, sway bar and entire steering rack and column. I then pulled out rear diff and suspension. Going to be keeping the stock diff but its going to need a big clean up first. So now the car is up on stands. I decided to try using a die grinder on low PSI and a sanding wheel thingy (I don't know what it's called) to strip the underbody. It wasnt powerful enough though and cant get through the rubbery chunks so i am going to try various wire wheels. If that doesnt work i may have to bite the bullet and go with a chemical stripper which may be the best option anyway due to all the grease and oil and garbage on the underbody as you can see on the third last pic. All is not lost though as the sanding wheel thingy is awesome for stripping the paint back to bare metal so that will save me a heap of sanding down the track.

Thanks
Trav

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Just get a wire wheel for an angle grinder that should get the bulk of it off and they will be alot cheaper than using the die grinder...

That's what I used (wire wheel for the angle grinder)
Make sure you wear glasses and some think clothing, the wires break off and will penetrate skin. I had a centimeter long wire poking out my arm by a mil - didn't notice till later on - I was a bit surprised when I pulled it out.

Hey guys how long did you find it took you with the angle grinder?

I got a wire wheel and attached it to my air die grinder. I made some progress but it is not shredding it off. With the duty cycle of the compressor it took me about 1hr to get maybe 1/4 of one wheel well done. Do you think an electic angle grinder with a wire wheel would be any quicker?

Thanks
Trav

No down time due to waiting for air makes the angle grinder a no brainer.

I've used them on all my suspension components to get off old rust/paint/gunk and I was able to do parts extremely fast. Just make sure you hold on and wear that thick clothing that demacoz mentioned, I've also fallen victim to that.

You can get different types of wire wheel too, have a go with a couple of different types to find one that suits your needs.