s speaking with a guy thats into bikes. He says try leaning out midrange by dropping needles as I've spaced up to richen. Main jet might be big but better bit rich at wot. Worth a shot too I figure.
He raced karts with his son a lot. He thinks same bout filters but in a car situation less turbulence under bonnet than on a bike too. 


Update: beat the rain and put the needles back to stock bike position middle slot.

Idle still lean. Sometimes idles low and 19 but if I get consistent idle at 1000 rpm 15.3. Wide open in the 12.3 ish is now which is better. Think 1.7mm main jets still too rich. 1.4 or 1.5 might be ideal as still looses power up top and afrs go rich. 13 and 14 would be better at wot.

even if the bpsx ebay wide band is not accurate, its showing the swing from lean to rich was step in right direction to help get this far In Home tuning. Thanks for the interest and help guys.

Got some car time today. Need some 58mm id pvc pipe to test diy runners of 100mm to see if pod filters will work on them well. Mine was too big 60mm. Air pods made fuel come out air vents again. They block air flow to the jets in the intakes.
With mesh runs like it did, idles at 1200rpm nicely . Lean if idle below 1200rpm idle.
Wide band says rich everywhere else. Stumbles and no power. Main Jets must be too big at 1.7mm. Need a day with simon on dyno!!!

now has anyone had any success with bike cv carbs on cars?

Ive got new 1.3mm main jets to play with and if needed prepared to drill til right afrs on dyno.
Can the pilots be drilled for more low down flow like mains?
Im so close but no time to get to simons. Looking for some advice from those that have played with bike carbs.