What does "woody" mean? That it isn't stopping quickly?

Bias needs adjustment if the rear brakes lock up before the fronts, it shouldn't be used to fix squat/dive problem (in other words, not a good idea to turn the braking force down to try to solve a suspension problem)

DD, hard to explain and keep it short(ish), but what I meant by woody is that they feel as though they lose bite (probably not any clearer)but at lower speeds it brakes as you would expect, but as you squeeze the pedal it seems to lose aggressiveness. I haven't pushed it all the way to lock up yet as I have not been on a suitable road to jump on them but I will get out to an open space to test properly. The bias is only so that I can reduce rear brake to gauge any change in the cars behavior with much more front than rear, I don't expect by installing a proportioning valve that it will solve the issue but it will help to address a few unusual attitudes the car has under braking. It might be suspension related, however the front is not that stiff so I would assume that it would dive to some degree under braking. The brakes do feel as though they could be improved though, so I will do a few tests and see what results I get.
Vac supply is good and check valve in the right direction and pedal drops when car is started so everything seems OK with the booster. Time will tell and I will get a few other guys behind the wheel to test, will do another bleed etc, will be sure to post any findings or improvements.

You can test front/rear brake lockup at 50kph. No need to use high-speed (and safer to test at low speed)

If the rears lock first, it might try to spin. Not good. A proportion valve can help

If the fronts lock first, it safer, but means the car is won't stop as quickly as it should. A proportion valve won't help in this case

The rear suspension squatting down under braking -- restricting the rear brakes might help that (using a proportioning valve)

Anti-squat behavior is built into the rear suspension ... have you modified the rear suspension leaf mounting points or using lowering blocks?

I am using 1.5" lowering blocks and the car sits slightly lower in the back, so it could be simply due to the nose high attitude of the car or could be being exaggerated by this. I need to test out a few things, maybe removing the blocks might change the diving? Although I didn't notice it before I made the conversion but I didn't really ever test it under heavy brakes that I can remember.

Lowering blocks don't cause the problem as I understand, but might magnify it. I don't recall anyone talking about squat on braking, but it occurred in my 1200 on acceleration when I removed one of the leaves -- made for a soft ride, but overall not good

Let us know if the Proportioning Valve helps

Bit of an update, but not quite there yet on the brakes. Installed the proportioning valve but that was still not enough to get the fronts to lock before the rear with it wound all the way out!
Changed front pads from a high temp pad to a basic road pad and improved grab and feel a lot at road speeds. That explains the lack of feel in the front brakes, just needed to get them hotter... wrong pads for the street clearly. That also still didn't change enough to lock the fronts. Changing to SR20 fronts with 180mm rotors in the hope that that will improve front braking enough. I also have S15 4 pots, but they don't clear the wheels so I will find other alternatives before going in that direction. (Starting a new thread on the brake issue)

On another note, I had the first inspection with the Engineer. All went well, some small things to do (brakes being the only major). Hoping to have the car registered and on the road legitimately soon.

Rebuilt SR20DET single piston brake calipers on with 280mm rotors. Brake bias issue sorted!

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Nose wheelies

Haha. Yep.

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