Hey Go the Datto is hard to not wind up the boost eh! lol!

And Dude I am just curious what did you do to seal around the accelerator cable and fuel line? ( was it just a rubber grommet? )
I have never built or seen anyone I know with a boxed ( I have seen your pics! )
but how did you bolt every thing in? does the bottom of the box unbolt like the top?
( I personnally wouldn't bother building a carbie setup again but if I did I would use a boxed setup as by the time it takes to seal the carbie ( wait for the fuel proof glue to go off ( 2 days) and make the hat for the top of the carbie ) I could have made a box for the whole carbie and saved myself alot of time and heart ache! ( ie, the glue not working or glue getting in the wrong part of the carbie!)

first off all i meant by saying keeping boost @ 10 PSI for a month , in other sense, meaning i know i wont b able to keep it @ 10 PSI i thought u would get my point!
barpk

I like the Sucking turbo system use say a 2 inch SU or a Single side draft weber on the inlet of the turbo and use water and/or methanol injection to help keep intake charge cool. My friend has this setup on his Commodore Wagon with Black 202 six cylinder and goes really really well. He has side draft 45mm Weber. Its also easier to tune.
For the A12-A15 get a hold of the t25. Its cheap and cheap to overhaul. Just a pointer
you should find out if E15-T pistons and conrods and cranks can fit in the A15. wink wink.

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personally i think main difference between diesel and petrol turbos is that diesel produces more heat and more exhaust gas due to its very high compression. so it might b that 1litre daihatsu diesel turbo could b good for 1171 CC. not sure though.
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where is the vacuum line positioned on a carb? is it above the accelerator cable? to the opposite side of the cable or what? from what u have described i think its mechanical; one end of a thin rod is inserted to same part where the accelerator cable is and other end of rod in almost on the end of mouth of the carb. it it what u meant??
barpk

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what is that! whats 110? and 200? jet sizes numbers or what? i still have a jet with me which has 86 written on it, it it similar jet but different hole size?
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is it the 2 door 1500 CC non intercooler turbo of late 80's, pop up lights, rear glass at almost perpendicular to the ground, Tubo II was written on one of its badge? what is its HP in standard form?

and i am sticking with the standard fuel pump for now, as i have solid float and wont go above 10 PSI until i sort out the bugs.
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BTW i went to a second hand spare market today to look for anything i need, i found a late 80's or early 90's Corolla 1.6 DOHC 16 valve carburator engine. on a front drive Gear Box, do u know whats the name of this engine? can it b fitted to my B310?

barpk

i think the toyota engine is "4A-F" 100 HP,
can it b fitted to my car?

regarding keeping boost at 10 psi for 1 month - I did get your point and this was my point obviously you didn't get it! ( no point doing it if you are not going to set it up properly! )

Regarding Standard Fuel pump - The standard fuel pump won't flow enough fuel that the engine will require! ( Boost means more air and this requires more fuel!)
Standard fuel pump has a pressure of about 2.5 psi if you run this or more boost the engine won't get any fuel as boost pressure will be pushing it back to the fuel tank!

Vacuum secondaries - a carbie with mechanical secondaries has onlt 1 vacuum line which goes to the distributor! if you have more than one vacuum line I am pretty sure you have vacuum secondaries!

Go the Datto said 110 & 200 - these are jet sizes like he said! ( a bigger number means a bigger hole!)

Go the Datto said a turbo from a Jap wreckers - A Jap wreckers is a place that sells second hand parts off of Japanese vehicles! so he is saying get a turbo off of any Japanese vehicle!

Diesel Turbo - I have told you what I think about the diesel turbo on a petrol engine!
If you want to use it! Do it! But dont expect miracles! maybe it will work and maybe it won't!

so how did you seal the accelerator cable, let alone the choke cable? it gwets cold here in Melbourne. I have been toying with the idea of just using the carbie and hat off a kb laser turbo, as the carbs were apparently set up for boost. Just have to save the $$$. Anyone got some info of these kb laser set ups? There is also the daihatsu 990cc cb50, but i think the flow rates are too small for a 1200, plus i dont know if there are bigger needles for the carb. Anyone know? Also, did you guys change the fuel filler neck for the pressurised fuel system?

Cant say I have seen a KB laser turbo but I know on my KB laser runaround that the carbie is exactly the same as the 1200 type (the only modification requirements requiered to fit it to the 1200 manifold is 1 hole needs to be drilled for one of the 4 studs! If you look at 1 you will see what I mean!)

I used to have a customer that had put the daihatsu carbie and turbo setup on his 1300 corolla! ( he was a mechanic that knew about carbies and I am sure he resized the jets!) The car was very zippy around town due to the small turbo! (Later he put the fuel injection and a bigger turbo!)

Regarding the fuel filler neck - I think I understand what you mean! but there was no need as the pressure is in the fuel lines not the tank!( I don't think I would like a tank that was beeing pressureised!)
- This is what we used;
1 VL Commodore Fuel Pump,
1 Malpassi Rising Rate Fuel Regulator (for carbie not injection! ),
and 1 fuel return line back to the tank!

It works like this - fuel pump pumps fuel to the regulator ( the regulator has an inlet from the tank, and outlet to the carbie, a returnline to the tank and a vacuum/boost line from the manifold!)( this VL pump is used due to it being able to produce hi pressure and flow!)
When the vacuum/boost line is giving vacuum the regulator will send around 3-4 psi fuel pressure to the carbie ( pressure is adjustable!) and the extra fuel back to the tank through the return line!
When the vacuum/ boost line is giving a boost signal the regulator closes the return line enough to give the carbie more pressure than there is boost and still enough fuel flow!

The regulator is required because you need the high pressure fuel for boost and when there is no boost being produced the carbies needle and seat can't handle to much pressure!
Go the Datto had another setup which he has talked about you might like to go back and check it out!

*** One other modification that was done to the boosted carbies is we made a brass bush for around the fuel plunger to help seal boost and fuel loss from here under boost! ***

Also chokes are for pussies! lol! nah but really we took the chokes out as they looked to much like a restriction!
But even if you did use one I couldnt see it being any different to sealling around the accelerator or the fuel line!

the corrolla engines not bad, my old mans got a 90 corolla, toataly standard and its suprisingly quick, nothing to get that exicted about though, anyway being fwd it would be a very big job to fit to a 1200 and not worth it .

pressurised fuel system???

unless i missed something they are just talking about fuel pumps which go after the fuel tank and before carbie, the fuel pump is capable of pumping a certain pressure of fuel into the line heading up to the carbie and they are saying for 10psi boost the pump needs to be able to supplly about 15psi fuel pressure . You also need a pressure regulator (which goes in line after pump and determines fuel pressure there after) to set the pressure at required level, ideally for a turbo though you need a rising rate pressure regulator which works off the boost so that when you have 10psi boost you have 15psi fuel pressure but then when you have like 15psi boost you have more like 20 or more psi fuel pressure for reasons stated earlier

both the pump which can supply high pressure and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator are quite expensive though and a lot of turbo setup have inferior versions of these which become the limitation to the system