Thanks Matt,

Here is a video of the engine doing a run about 10 mins ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2m4xyNgPPQ

What's flashing red on the dials?

Quote:Stock A-series usually floats around 6400 (and coincidentally or not the tachometer redline is 6400)

Stock A-series dual valve springs usually float around 6800. GX, A14T and EGI Engines are spec'd for peak HP at 6400

I didn't set any of the gauge warning limits, so the top left if RPM that is showing a warning at only 5000RPM. The bottom one is injector duty cycle that goes red at 90%.

Great info DD, thanks for that. With boost pressure at the back of the valve it may even be a touch earlier. The power does seems to dive a bit too fast from 6300 rpm, this could explain it.

DD comes through with the digits.

For the fuel atomization issue it is not hard to convert the stock manifold to water heat. I did this on one of my 1200's that had an extractor on it when I acquired it. No matter how the carb was tuned the car did not run good unless the outside temp was warm bordering on hot or the engine had been running for 20 minutes or more.

To convert manifold to water heat.

1. Scrape out all the carbon that is plugging the fins on the bottom of the intake manifold where the exhaust manifold used to be.

2. Using an end mill cut through both ends of the heat transfer fins making them free standing.

3. Make a plate that bolts on where the exhaust manifold used to be. Drill and tap a hole for a water fitting near the front outside edge. I used 1/8" pipe thread fittings for getting the water in and out of the converted manifold.

4. Drill into the engine side rear corner of the manifold hot spot and tap for water fitting. If you angle the drill just right there is enough metal there to drill and tap for 1/8" pipe thread.

With this configuration the hot water enters the old hot spot from the right rear upper corner and exits out the bottom at the left front corner traversing corner wise thru the fins warming the manifold.

I used 1/8" male pipe thread to 1/4" hose fittings for the manifold. Made 1/2" hose fittings with 1/4" hose side taps to tap into to the heater lines.

The engine runs much better with the heated manifold with both light throttle and low end torque showing much improvement.

I've got some pics around here somewhere but can't find 'em at the moment.

Thanks for sharing Gary, That's sounds perfect! I've ground some of this part of the manifold away. I'll have to start again with another manifold and hope it clears the turbo manifold.

I've just done another run, this time at 14 Psi and intercooled. It made 94.5Kw and 160Nm. Not bad for a stock A12 long motor!

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Great idea.

There is a plate in between the intake & exhaust manifolds, if you put the bolts back in it may be water tight.

So my 90 was close Simon,that still on 98?but with intercooler yes?As a matter of interest mine started to fall off at 6400 also but with an oval port head. Get that horrible pump fuel out of it and throw some sugar juice at it to cool things down...you may run out of injector though doh