So what do we do with the idle valve port on the Hyundai TB?

Ive been away for a couple of days..

Hi Matt, There are 3 ports, 1 large at the top and 2 smaller ones. The two smaller ones were connected to each other but not into the TB venturi itself(on mine anyway)so they could be left untouched. What I did was, cut off the steel tubes and drilled through into the venturi to be able to have 2 more vac/boost sources. Then drilled out the steel tube stub and the tapped the holes to tapped 1/8 npt to be able to use brass fittings. I have just plugged them for now. As these lower two smaller tubes connect to each other only, they can be left as they are or just cut off the steel hose fittings if they are in the way.

The larger top hole is where I will be fitting the air temp sensor. The GM style air temp sensors come in several thread sizes, but there should be enough of a boss to be able to tap for all sizes although the 3/8NPT is getting close to the limit(which is what I have). If you want to fit the sensor elsewhere, this can just be fitted with a short piece of hose and plug and clamps to seal it off. Or cut off the steel tube and drill and tap to suit a blanking plug. I'll put up some pics either here or in the build thread.

As DD and I have mentioned, The standard distibutor/points can trigger the ignition circuit. This still allows for full ignition control and the use of twin coils(wasted spark). This would be the simplest way to trigger things, but would be the least accurate because of different points opening time because of distibutor shaft/bush wear, points wear, cam wear, points adjustment changing timming etc.... Id prefer a simple crank or dissy electronic trigering.

I'm off to the wreckers tomorrow to find a Hyundia Excel to catch up with this build
Photo please of the adapted dizzy as I would like to go down a sismilar route
cheers dp
Quote:

May be a silly question but could the signal from this be an option?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-DIS ... in_15&hash=item417f7a1f32

dissy electronic triggering is subject to most of the flaws of a regular distributor.

How about I try the $28 modified distributor I have already done and see how stable the timing is? If its ok, at least it will stay that way(unlike a points trigger). It will also be easy to repeat for others.

Are people happy to loose the distributor cap/leads and go with a wasted spark setup?? I was originally going for a stock look, but the compromises are stacking up!!

This is the distributor. The $8. 12 tooth wheel still needs to be welded in place and 1 or 2 teeth removed. All the base plate and advance mechanism has been removed. The the sensor is off the same Hyundai Excel as the TB. If people are happy to go wasted spark, the top can be covered with an ally plate held on with 2 screws.
Its probably a 2+ hour conversion. The sensor has a nyloc nut either side of it to adjust the sensor/wheel clearance.
I know i've virtually repeated what i'd posted on page 10, but wanted to elaborate how easy it is to do. I can't think of an easier way to get a reliable trigger. Just need to test for stable timing. Idle will probably be where it moves around a couple of degrees if at all.

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Sikyne do as you will because you are handing out the knowledge. That is a cool mod. I was never aware a chain sprocket could be a trigger wheel. I'm floored, and inspired.

At this stage, I'm just hoping it works!! Na, it should work ok being a hall sensor.
Here is the link to where I bought the sprocket. You can get them from other ebay stores as well.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2814008988 ... geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I might hook it up to an oscilloscope and test the output before others buy them. Have to weld it in place first.

As my jap buddy says I Rub it, I rabbit or I rike it!
I love it or like it I repeat to no avail.