Hey, G.

That 262° duration, .425 lift (at valve, I think). cam in my build, a regrind from Delta, has worked out great. Larger than a GX (A12GX: 256°, .331 lift at cam), it has very good torque all the way down at 1500 and a wide power band that allows me to easily cruise in 3rd or 4th in the windy canyon & mountain roads I love to drive. It is amazing the tractability of this engine down low. Of course, it moves well when I put the spurs to it. Stock valve springs limits my Rs, as I have not yet swapped in the GX spring set I recently purchased. Now, I am still using the stock Midget mufflers. Replacing those with something more open will change the tourque curve somewhat. Still, if building another A series I would use that grind again. On the other hand Delta might be able to reproduce a GX on your core, or another profile.

One of my favorite roads: http://www.canyonrats.com/2013/04/roa ... little-tujunga-canyon-rd/

Ok. I recall seeing a datsun fwd car in this same salvage yard. It did have the A14 engine in it but dont recall the specific model. When I make it back out there, will check out the oil pan and see if its better than the rwd b210 car. Or may just end up getting both.

sorry edited my post, it should say A14 fwd sump has the bumps to suit a15 crankshafts a supposed option somewhere on earth?

FWD sump has longer front hump section welded on, this extended hump
is easy to cut where its welded and weld on a winged section on it.

The 1981 camshaft is already a "lesser" cam -- it has less duration and less power than a standard A14/A15 cam

It's a bit of a package deal. If you want to go with less revving, go with less cam and smaller-port cylinder head. On the other hand, if you want to rev to 6400 RPM use the parts designed for high-power, high-revving -- a GX-type camshaft, GX-size cylinder head and GX-size carburetors (either twin 38mm SU-type carbs or twin 40mm weber/mikuni/dellorto, or at least a weber 32/36)

If you were to fit a less-duration cam with the GX head, it's like shooting yourself in the foot. The cam isn't big enought to make good HP at the top end, yet the GX cylinder head is too big for maximum torque at lower RPMS

For maximum power, use the GX head, and rev it up high. Steep gearing will help to rev fast. 4.2 is what I'd use for all-around street/highway driving. Even steeper gears will accelerate faster, but at some point it starts to limit top speed and/or overpowers the tires.

Many of use want more relaxed driving. Using 3.9 gears (which were stock on most Datsuns with A-engines) mean less shifting, less noise, higher fuel economy and slower acceleration. I had two 1200s
* Stock A12 with 3.9 gears, it was a relaxed enjoyable driving experience
* Built A14 with 4.1 gears, it was an exciting, tense driving experience

I have a 3.9. So a lesser cam then for my application. Do I have the 81 camshaft grinded or purchase a new one?

It's not difficult to raise the engine up. An average person can lift the engine up, maybe not carry it but it's quite light.


Quote:Yes, it'll work OK, as will the 1981 camshaft. The GX spec is a long-duration cam than either. So it all depends on how high you want to rev the engine. I'd recommend a GX cam if you have 4.11 or 4.2 gearing (which allows easy 75 mph crusing), a lesser cam with taller gearing (e.g. 3.7 to 3.9).

D...what do you mean about a winged section?? Do you have any pictures?

The oil pan in the B210 car is sitting in the pic-and-pull salvage yard which may be difficult to do all that. It may be easier to just get the whole engine pulled which the owner will do that for $100 and drops it in my truck with his front end loader. The A14 motor is the 80HP version with a H72 head, would the camshaft work well with my GX head or do I just go with the Iskenderian cam? Want to determine if its worth just getting the whole motor and take parts off of it for my A15 rebuild.

after recently giving away an A14 sump from a FWD pulsar
Ive noticed they also have the bumps and extended front
hump can be made into winged section very nicely.

A15 oil pan is unique. The A14 pan will not clear the A15 crank throws on the left side of the pan. If you want to use an A14 pan, you can beat four bulges in the side of the pan

The A-series engine will run fine on 1.5 liters of oil. So there is absolutely no need for 5 liters. But when going around corners the oil will slosh up the side of the pan, so that's why 3.5 liters is the typical amount used for pan + filter.

Pull the pan is difficult when it is stil in B210 vehiclie. You will be able to reach all the bolts, but won't be able to pull the pan off without lifting the engine a bit. The pan sits very close to the engine crossmeber. But no worries, just undo one engine mount bolt each side, jack up the engine and let it hang off a 2x4 or pipe or something.