Thaifrog looks like a simple transmission mount to fabricate. Will show my fabrication guy this image. I have the original transmission mount but will probably need to get a new one to go along with this setup.

DD and others...... Ok back to asking more questions..... another individual that is doing this conversion advised that the B210 oil pan is a better pan to use if the engine will remain forward which requires notching the pan so that it clears the MG crossmember, which is what I plan to do. BTW...nice explanation on the oil pans for the A series engine in Tech Wiki (just like everything else). Since the B210 is a mid sump it would be better to use in this particular situation because the A15 sump oil capacity is towards the front. What is surprising to me is that the A15 front sump oil pan has a capacity of 2.8 liters whereas the A14 mid sump oil pan capacity is 3.2 liter. Less oil for a larger engine displacement?? Please explain. This is ideal since notching the oil pan may reduce some oil capacity but it looks like we have .4 liters of oil that we can work with. And as explained in Tech Wiki, I need to grab the dipstick and pickup tube as well. Anything else that I need to know about? And since the A14 engine that I will be pulling the pan from is still in the vehicle, will I be able to access all the bolts to remove the pan? Thanks for responses.

This is the gearbox mount i made, just bolts up under the floor with screws coming through either side of the trans tunnel and behind the big square section cross piece thats in front of the seats.
Uses the std Nissan rubber mount.

one piece of angle going across. Then another piece with notches cut out of it then bent and welded to the cross piece.
Had engine and gearbox in position and supported by wood, then measured the height i needed.

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Heres a picture showing where the gearstick is.
I think its a little further back from standard.
The transmission tunnel has been modified slightly but not by a lot, it was done by PO, i bought the car as a part finished project and finished it off.
I think the issue with the yoke hitting the tunnel is when people use the conversion kit to use the gearbox with the original BMC engine.
Remember its your conversion, you are in charge, you can position the engine how you like as long as it fits.....

My 60L gearbox became very noisy and then started to leak.
I need to rebuild it with new bearings.

BTW you can get one piece flip up fronts for midgets too, that make it like a spitfire. I have one on my car, undo 4 screws and unplug the connector for the lights and you can remove the whole front body... makes things much easier to work on.

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Thaifrog, your engine is sitting way back! You dont even need to cut the steering rack crossmember. Did you have to cut a larger opening in the tunnel to make clearance for the shifter? Also, on the midget the yoke and u-joint assembly hit the tunnel if its too far back. You dont have that problem on your Austin Healey? Tell me what happened to your 60L.

Thanks for the pics Smellofbikes. I dont recall any MG owners that had to do the remote filter setup. I recall one owner had to set the engine to the left slightly in order to clear the oil filter. Thaifrog's toyota filter may solve that problem. Wont know till I get my guy to set it in there and determine what will work best. It looks like the Spitfire's framing is different from the midget. I wish I had all that access! Jealous of the spitfire bonnet.

yes, same Guy, the MGEXP and Datsun1200 sites are my two favourite....
Here is a picture of my engine bay half way through replacing my knackered 60L gearbox with a 60A.

I liked the dogleg just because it was unusual... however must confess the 60A is easier to drive ...

I use the std sump, no need to modify. I cut out the heater/battery tray and welded up the holes (i dont need a heater) and made a bolt-in battery tray.

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I can't get a good shot of the chopped oil pan, but here are shots of the spitfire installation and a closeup of the oil pump remote filter adapter and the lack of clearance between it and the right shock tower. There's about 2mm of clearance between the filter and the shock tower, and on the other side 3mm of clearance between the exhaust and the steering shaft, and on the bottom, about 3mm of clearance between the pan and the steering rack.

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most jap cars have interchangeable thread and sealing o-ring diameters.
I used a ford Z9 monster with anti drain back valve on my old Camper Toyota 2L L4 pushrod antiquity with very good oil life extension.

Smellsofbikes...Some other MG owners that have done the conversion did modify the oil pan. It all depends how far back you push the engine. The smaller tubular crossmember that holds the steering rack does need to be cut regardless in order to provide clearance for the crankshaft pulley. Some have spared the main crossmember and have gone with a modified oil pan. The guy that will be doing my chassis work will look at how to make it work with the least amount of cutting. Will report back on all that at a later time.

Thaifrog...... Your the same guy with the Austin Healey on the MG Experience website? Great site here to get the information I need for my conversion. Gave up on finding a dogleg 5 speed 60 series gearbox. Only offered in 1979 from what I have read on this forum. Not many salvage Datsun cars in the North Texas area but did locate an H pattern 5 speed 60 series gearbox from a 1981 sedan. Happy with my find and ready to get this project moving along. Holiday season will likely slow things down. Thanks for the oil filter tip.

Good find! I see that 90915-YZZE1 has a 3/4-16 UNF thread, same as Datsun. Length is 80 mm - shorter than the shortest Nissan A-series filter (100 mm). The original Datsun 1200 filter was 145 mm long.