Datsun Thread post’s
Hi Everyone :blush:

This is the first time I do something like this(A forum post / build log ), so be gentle Criticism is welcome ! (Sorry for the long story, but I thought that you should be able to get it all 'noPotato' )

Here will my build log be, as I a little time ago bought myself a, least to say, projekt car, which I want to make Road Worthy.
(I have also this same post in the RATSUN B210 forum)

The Story goes as follows, some guy on a Facebook group made a post, wanting a classic RWD JDM car. On that post, some guy(Karsten) postet a photo of a Barnfind that he had sitting, which he himself, hadn't have time to come buy yet, so why not make somebody else happy?
I wrote to the guy, but OP was also in contact with him, so it was a matter of first to be there gets it.

To all my surprise, i got there first (OP hadn't had time)

The car was one big unknown... The owner didn't have any papers or info on the car besides what he could see and what he knew, as it followed when he bought the estate of a passed away elderly.
To his knowledge the previews owner had had a plan to restore or fix it, and he had gotten a indisposition and could not continue, as of that, the car had been standing still since the late 80'es early 90'es.. It stood with 60.000 km on the clock, so

But here it was;










As you see it needed a kind hand, and alot of work...

But I ended up buying it for 10.000,- DKK ( Around 1500,- USD ), Some of you may think/believe that that price is way too high, but here in Denmark we have some bitching import laws, and the price for Datsuns in Europe is just high... Along with the fact that if I wanted to import one from Japan or the US then on top on getting it transported back home, there would be an import tax of around 1500,- USD, so this was a quite good deal for me :thumbup:

I got it home to a friend, where there is room for it to be, and us to work.
There we made a 1.step plan. If we could get the engine startet, the weekend would have been a succes... But we didn't get that lucky...

The battery was toast, so we replaced that. Got in. Turned the key. All the lights worked ect. and all the warning lights turned on, as there was no water, brake or clutch fluid anywhere, it had evaporated :huh: along with the oil, which there was not too much left of.
Turned the ignition and; 'click' ...(try again) 'click' .. 'click' ...
The starter was toast :sleep:
We then took the starter out and tried to figure out that was wrong. We ended up getting it going on the bench, but not the correct way so when we get it back in, nothing happened... This was such a pain, as we ended up doing this several times... Getting it going on the bench, but not in the car..
After lots of trying, we ended up finding out that it was the switch / relay ON the starter, the mechanism that pushes the spoke out into the gearboks so the teeth can engage with the clutch, that was fuc*ed.
We then took this off and my friends dad said that they had one that looked alike from an old VW golf. It turned out that they wasn't the same, but he then dismantled / tore it apart to see how it functioned, and we found out the following;
When the ignition activates, a electromagnet is activated, pulling the small piston(which is responsible for pulling/pushing the gear on the motor out) in, pushing on a rod, that connects the two terminals that activates the motor and allowing the starter to get the current it needs. (Sorry for no pictures here, would have been help full for understanding...)
We got the Datsun unit apart, using a set of screwdrivers to prey it open carefully, cleaned the terminals inside, and leveling the contact points, so the connection was restored.
IT WORKED! One little victory, yay :frantics:
But when we got it back on the car, it still didn't start, but the motor was turning, so we could work from here.

To make the rest short, se testet the spark, and there wasn't any... the distributor had nothing left on the platin plates and something had shorted out, melting a wire ect.

What a pain...
But there it was, standing in our behold :D







We then agreed that, Okay, fuc* it. Lets rip it apart... As we knew that there was some rust behind both front wheels. But this ended up getting WAAAYYY out of hand, and we found a bit more rust that expected...













Under the front panels







Wheel arch




Along with that, what i havn't got pictures of.
Both the driver's and passengers floor (ad the feet), going from the bottom/ start of transmission tunnel, all around the bottom edge of the outer frame back to mid between the rear passanger's and front passangers... But there dosen't seem to be any in the important structures and guards, so that good..?

So there is a good amount of rust to be dealt with...

But Along the way, we will get it done
If anyone know where to get some replacement/sheet metal for the shown/described ares it would help a lot! Then we dont need to fabricate it all our self

The course is then laid. The car needs to be fully striped from everything, and then we are going to give it a complete overhaul! Paintjob, interior ect.

But regarding the motor, I'm thinking of getting one out of a Nissan Micra(CG14DE or CR12DE) to replace it with, but mating it to a gearbox and which I havnt found out yet...
I have also thought of the Ford Ecoboost 1.0, Maxda 1.8 V6 ( K8 ) (these too mate up with the MX5 gearbox kinda) and some others... Mainly because of it being too expensive to fully rebuild the A12 in there, if I want any power out of it :sleep: I might do this on the side, as a free-time projekt, putting it back in, when it's rebuild
EDIT: Has come to the conclusion that I might as well do a complete rebuild of the A12; Full cleaning, machining, honed, milled, ported ect. and get it to be the best it can be. Prop. also go EFI and EDIS with a Mega or MicroSqirt
After that, or along with it, I'm thinking of putting a SC12 on it :)


Why then not just do the good old SR20 or one of the other well proven powerswaps? In Denmark you are not allowed to tune/add more power to a chassi, beyond 20% of stock rating. Beyond that you need to reinforce the whole thing, and get it approved ect. to get it road leagel, and this is a pain + very expensive... But the 20% if, of what the chassi is rated for, not the model, so if the chassi is the same for another model, with a more powerfull engine, you can add up to 20% on the "top" model power-rating
To this I ask... Is the chassi for the B210 the same for A10-12-14 L14-16 models ? Or how do they differ?
This I then need to prove with some sort of official paper ect. but just a thought...

Best Regards Tobias and Christian
(We are also thinking of making a Youtube series our of what we are doing, although we didn't filmed the first part, we would do the rest ? Ideas on this would be great also! )

Trying to show the code for a proper image post from PhotoBucket but [ i m g ] [/ i m g ]

Photo link goes between the bracketed code and the spaces are removed from inside the brackets.

:D

Quote:

Done ^_^
Was alredy on it, as I saw it didnt work

:D

I'd be interested in seeing this on YouTube. Definitely has some rust.

Hey there

We got a little update for you;

The car has been striped and we have began fixing rust...
And there is alot of it...




Have alot of pics of buth more rust found and some of the stuff we have fixed, but wanting to make this short.

In my spare time ( I live a 3 hour drive from where the car is standing ), I have brought some parts with my home and given them some attention. Did the brakecylinder and the res's as they where comepletly clogged up with dryed out (sry no pics)
But have also given the rear lights a makeover;

The before




After sanding and cleaning;




Finished:




But now I have some spare time as I have been fired from work So I'm over here working on the car the whole week!

rust up near the windscreen under the guards is a VERY common problem... already retired my Martch'77 120Y four door farm hack due to that problem...

I want to get my July '74 120Y restored and made roadworthy, but I have High Fucntioning autisim and I don't have a drivers licence...

if you do a search for "The Defect III" you can find it on the forums, I even have a video of it on youtube...

was rebuilt from a shell that that the odo was stuck at 70,025 Km on, hell the car still has the paper tag on the steering box (paper fill tag)from the factory...

bnut it's NOT stock engine was seized and was an auto, now is still A12 powered but has a F4W60L out of an A14/A15 powered sunny in it, and I replaced the original H145 with the Borg Warner 68 out of the Defect (original 120Y)

REALLY need another rebuild of it do I can get rid of the crappy dry rotted 12" rims for safer 14" rims...

my car's better than yours on the bottom, however it needs a new roof skin as it got picked up by a front end loader and crumpled up the drip rails it also has rust issues on the passenger side up near the windscreen...

L14-L20B were offered in the 120Y (B210), they were a separate chassis code...

PB210/KPB210 (coupe version)has a few unique parts

Bonnet,Grille, front bumper, and apron and the lights under the front bumper, are different JDM PB210's had different front mudguards (same basic pressing but different indicators) PP210 sedans have VERY different taillights, KPB210 (sunny Excellent coupes have three round lights a side, giving them the nickname Rocket Sunny PB210s and KPB210's also have a ROUND guage dashboard, sadly PB210/KPB210's were only made in RHD...

PB210's were sold as Nissan Sunny Excellents and while use the basic 120Y shell, almost everything fitted to the shell are radically different and the reason 120Y's look ungainly on their 12" rims is I belive the PB210 came out first and the 120Y was developed off that...