I would like to take the credit for the two CV's
in the tail shaft, but it is actually a HONDA thing.

All I did to the tail shaft was get it shortened and
balanced.

Next bit fitted was the radiator. I mounted it between
the strut towers to keep all the weight behind the front
axle line.

1.6 aluminium sheet was used for the rear sections of
the floor. riveted and body sealed in.

A new laminated wind screens and seal also went in.
I decided to keep the windscreen glass and not
poly carbonate as the poly scratches very easily.

The grill badge had 30 years of crap encrusted into it.
My wife offered to give it a clean.

She was able to make it look like new.
At the same time she cleaned the tail lights and they
also came up like new.

After thanking her for the brilliant cleaning job I asked
her how she did it.

The answer freaked me out.

She used finger nail polish remover and ear buds.
The solvent did not effect the Chromed plastic at all.
and they still look great.
just don't get the solvent on the coloured pieces of the
tail lights as it will dissolve.

Cheers.
Geoff

Attach file:

---

  radiator 1 .jpg (155.87 KB)


  rear floor 1 .jpg (132.52 KB)


  windscreen 1 .jpg (146.88 KB)


  grill 1 .jpg (145.44 KB)

Nail polish remover, aka, acetone, aka, propanone is a handy solvent for paint, dried organic stuff, some plastics, some resins used for composites etc. It's a lot cheaper to buy from hardware than the beauty isle of the super market!

I just used it for cleaning up splodges of house paint (acrylic) off the floor boards.

You guys might find http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance useful if you want to know about chemical compatibility, it's a big part of my current job.

BTW, your wife's a legend for doing that job, that sort of fiddly stuff frustrates me.

Thanks lamb_daiquiri for the web site.

After the wife had run out of finger nail polish remover is when she told me what she was doing.

The tail lights were finished off with some Acetone I had in the shed,
It just amazed me the plastic was unaffected by a chemical that is essentially a paint stripper. . . . . . .

Next I decided to block in the radiator so all the air coming through the enlarged grill opening would go through the radiator and not around it.

This looked fine until I tried to install the air intel duct and filter and there was no way to get around or over the radiator.

I had not thought ahead far enough . . . . . .

So after a, "I fu###d that up moment" I decided to go under the radiator for some cold air.

The ducting is longer than I would have liked but it seems to work Ok.

Attach file:

---

  Rad floor 1 .jpg (195.34 KB)


  air filter 1 .jpg (174.26 KB)

More cabin bits . . . .

The pedal box including the master cylinders are all in the cabin.
This allowed most of the brake and clutch lines to be run
inside the cabin.

I installed twin hydrolic handbrakes, one per rear wheel.
To help with slow hair pin turns.
The idea is to try and load up (not lock up) the inside rear wheel with the hand brake to try and
pull the front of the car around the corner.

It works with tractors . . . . . .

Have not been game enough to try it in a race yet.

The Poly carbonate "Glass" is 3mm thick, the rear window
is installed with a standard rubber seal with no sealant
so it can be kicked out from inside the car if required.

The fuel tank, fuel pump and filter are installed inside a
sealed box where the passenger seat should be.
It's all about weight balance.

The steering wheel was bolted to the boss supplied with it, but the
horn button would not fit as the area inside the steering
wheel was not deep enough for the spring clips in the button.

I made a 6mm thick spacer to go between the boss and the wheel.
No the horn button does not work, but I like the look of it.
It completes the steering wheel.

The steering column is the original S2000 one modified to fit.
I kept the collapsible bit in the column just in case.

I used angle iron and exhaust clamps to mount the column.
I did not realise just how strong the mounting system needed to
be until I started making it.

The forces applied when the steering wheel is turned are huge . . .

Attach file:

---

  Pedal Box.jpg (104.27 KB)


  rear window .jpg (147.07 KB)


  fuel tank 1 .jpg (161.25 KB)


  steering wheel .jpg (82.53 KB)


  steering wheel 1 .jpg (123.87 KB)


  steering 1 .jpg (169.28 KB)


  steering 2 .jpg (164.89 KB)

ound good but it said set of two but only got one :/ But amazing soind


http://www.caraudiogiants.com/shop-by ... s/soundstream-sst-20.html

Not sure what you are talking about Scott?

Geoff,
School holidays and first time poster = spam.
keep us posted with the build, looking good so far.
What computer are you going to run?
Not sure about the handbrake though, not seen a track yet where ive required it. Good for drift and rally though.
Having said that Eastern Creek start line is sloped down hill and that is about the only time ive wished for something other then the brakes to keep from rolling on the line.
But the benefit of the 1200 is keeping the setup light, so you may find yourself changing that later to save weight.
Every bit counts.

Love it so far.

Bryan

Howdy Bryan,

Yes I must admit the hand brake thing is a bit weird.
I would not have installed twin hand brakes as a retro
fit in a finished car, but as there where no brake lines there
it was easy.

I don't believe they will be of any use on a circuit track.
Where they might be of some use is on a couple of Hill climb
tracks I compete at.

if you youtube Collingrove hill climb and Mount Gambier hill climb,
both in South Australia you should be able to pick the corners I am
thinking might be assisted by a hand brake on the inside wheel only.

Next comes the electrics.

Having the front cut of the Honda supplied me with the ECU
and all the wiring looms I could ever need. . . . .

The motor loom was installed untouched from standard.

All the other looms are going to be cut down to the bare minimum. The Dash is the standard S2000 unit.

Before I cut anything out of the looms I wanted to get the "blue bastard" started.

So with the wiring connected but just sitting around I attempted to start the "Blue Bastard".

After THREE full days of the Honda wiring diagrams,

The BLUE BASTARD would fuel prime, the dash would go through
it's start up checks, it would crank but not fire.

Every time I came in from the shed my wife would ask how I was getting on and she received the same answer every time for three days.

THAT BLUE BASTARD WILL NOT START.

The name sort of stuck.

Anyone want to guess what I missed and why it would not start??

Attach file:

---

  electrical .jpg (172.98 KB)


  electrical 1 .jpg (182.06 KB)


  electrical 2 .jpg (189.84 KB)

earths?

Earths all good. . . . .

The type of ECU I am using "sinks" the voltage to / from sensors
and the injectors so earthing the ECU is very important, all checked OK.

What I mean by sink is.
I will use the fuel injectors as an example.

There are two wires to each injector. One wire is connected
to the battery supply when the ignition is turned on.

The other wire is connected to the ECU.
The transistor in the ECU will, when required allow the power to flow
through the injector, through the transistor to earth, the frame of the
car and back to the battery negative.

Every second time engine rotates the injector is energised for a very short
period of time to supply a dose of fuel to be burnt.

The voltage applied is always 12v (battery voltage) but because it is pulsed the
average voltage seen by a volt meter will be less than 12 volt.

The higher the injector duty cycle and the higher the engine RPM is the higher
the average voltage will be.

This voltage can be measured whilst the engine is cranking
to see if the injectors are being fired.
In this case about 7.5 volts.

Earths all good.

Any other Ideas ? ? ? ?