Not sure what you are talking about Scott?

ound good but it said set of two but only got one :/ But amazing soind


http://www.caraudiogiants.com/shop-by ... s/soundstream-sst-20.html

More cabin bits . . . .

The pedal box including the master cylinders are all in the cabin.
This allowed most of the brake and clutch lines to be run
inside the cabin.

I installed twin hydrolic handbrakes, one per rear wheel.
To help with slow hair pin turns.
The idea is to try and load up (not lock up) the inside rear wheel with the hand brake to try and
pull the front of the car around the corner.

It works with tractors . . . . . .

Have not been game enough to try it in a race yet.

The Poly carbonate "Glass" is 3mm thick, the rear window
is installed with a standard rubber seal with no sealant
so it can be kicked out from inside the car if required.

The fuel tank, fuel pump and filter are installed inside a
sealed box where the passenger seat should be.
It's all about weight balance.

The steering wheel was bolted to the boss supplied with it, but the
horn button would not fit as the area inside the steering
wheel was not deep enough for the spring clips in the button.

I made a 6mm thick spacer to go between the boss and the wheel.
No the horn button does not work, but I like the look of it.
It completes the steering wheel.

The steering column is the original S2000 one modified to fit.
I kept the collapsible bit in the column just in case.

I used angle iron and exhaust clamps to mount the column.
I did not realise just how strong the mounting system needed to
be until I started making it.

The forces applied when the steering wheel is turned are huge . . .

Attach file:

---

  Pedal Box.jpg (104.27 KB)


  rear window .jpg (147.07 KB)


  fuel tank 1 .jpg (161.25 KB)


  steering wheel .jpg (82.53 KB)


  steering wheel 1 .jpg (123.87 KB)


  steering 1 .jpg (169.28 KB)


  steering 2 .jpg (164.89 KB)

Thanks lamb_daiquiri for the web site.

After the wife had run out of finger nail polish remover is when she told me what she was doing.

The tail lights were finished off with some Acetone I had in the shed,
It just amazed me the plastic was unaffected by a chemical that is essentially a paint stripper. . . . . . .

Next I decided to block in the radiator so all the air coming through the enlarged grill opening would go through the radiator and not around it.

This looked fine until I tried to install the air intel duct and filter and there was no way to get around or over the radiator.

I had not thought ahead far enough . . . . . .

So after a, "I fu###d that up moment" I decided to go under the radiator for some cold air.

The ducting is longer than I would have liked but it seems to work Ok.

Attach file:

---

  Rad floor 1 .jpg (195.34 KB)


  air filter 1 .jpg (174.26 KB)

Nail polish remover, aka, acetone, aka, propanone is a handy solvent for paint, dried organic stuff, some plastics, some resins used for composites etc. It's a lot cheaper to buy from hardware than the beauty isle of the super market!

I just used it for cleaning up splodges of house paint (acrylic) off the floor boards.

You guys might find http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance useful if you want to know about chemical compatibility, it's a big part of my current job.

BTW, your wife's a legend for doing that job, that sort of fiddly stuff frustrates me.

I would like to take the credit for the two CV's
in the tail shaft, but it is actually a HONDA thing.

All I did to the tail shaft was get it shortened and
balanced.

Next bit fitted was the radiator. I mounted it between
the strut towers to keep all the weight behind the front
axle line.

1.6 aluminium sheet was used for the rear sections of
the floor. riveted and body sealed in.

A new laminated wind screens and seal also went in.
I decided to keep the windscreen glass and not
poly carbonate as the poly scratches very easily.

The grill badge had 30 years of crap encrusted into it.
My wife offered to give it a clean.

She was able to make it look like new.
At the same time she cleaned the tail lights and they
also came up like new.

After thanking her for the brilliant cleaning job I asked
her how she did it.

The answer freaked me out.

She used finger nail polish remover and ear buds.
The solvent did not effect the Chromed plastic at all.
and they still look great.
just don't get the solvent on the coloured pieces of the
tail lights as it will dissolve.

Cheers.
Geoff

Attach file:

---

  radiator 1 .jpg (155.87 KB)


  rear floor 1 .jpg (132.52 KB)


  windscreen 1 .jpg (146.88 KB)


  grill 1 .jpg (145.44 KB)

CV joints on the tail shaft - inovative and strong- I like

Seat in next . . . . . .

The seat was one of the first things that was positioned
in the car and the cage and trans tunnel were built
around it.

The mounting points for the seat mounting brackets
are part of the floor and are fixed.

The gear lever, pedal box and steering wheel are all
installed around the seat position.

I made every thing suit my sitting position, so the
fit is perfect for me.

Pity anyone else who tries to drive Blue Bastard.

Attach file:

---

  seat 1 .jpg (136.26 KB)


  gear lever 0 .jpg (93.52 KB)


  gear lever 1 .jpg (149.10 KB)


  gear lever 2 .jpg (110.40 KB)

I can't remember the exact order of the next couple of
things fitted to the "blue bastard". . . .

So lets just say it was the exhaust.

I bought a length of straight pipe,
a couple of 90 degree bends and a resonator.
All in 2.5" diameter.

I then hand made a flange from 10mm plate to go onto
the extractors.

The three main things as I saw them were:

1 - to route the exhaust without going under the drivers
seat as its going to be hot enough in there as it is.

2 - to try and keep the exhaust as straight as possible.

3 - I wanted to go out the back of the car to help with the
noise side of things and as it's normally aspirated get
a little bit of back pressure happening.

So armed with a hacksaw and a welder I made this. . . .

Attach file:

---

  exhaust 1 .jpg (93.81 KB)


  exhaust 2 .jpg (126.58 KB)


  exhaust 3 .jpg (112.70 KB)


  exhaust 4 .jpg (156.15 KB)

well done. . . . .

The colour I wanted is on the V8supercar Volvos.

It's called Polstar blue which is there corporate racing blue.

I contacted the V8supercar team and they told me that
Polstar blue is not available to anyone as it does not actually exist.

They gave me the VIN number of a S60 Volvo painted in the
corporate colour.

When on a race car it's Polstar Blue.
When on a road car it's Rebel Blue.

The British have "British Racing Green"

It turns out Rebel Blue is actually "French Racing Blue"

Wonder if the Swedish flags blue is
Polstar, Rebel or French Racing Blue?


So what next?

Motor/gear box is back in.

Tail shaft. . . . . .

The gearbox output is flanged (no movement there).

The Diff input is flanged and the diff center
is fixed to the body. (no movement there)

No movement means universal joints are unsuitable
on at least one end of the tail shaft.

So why have any?

CV joints at both ends of the tail shaft is the way
to go as they are a lot stronger than Universal joints.

Strange thing is that the tail shaft "floats".
I can move it about 10mm forward/backward between
the flanges.

Cheers

Geoff

Attach file:

---

  Motor in .jpg (160.61 KB)


  tail shaft.jpg (115.97 KB)