Front suspension in.

More MADDAT stuff, including steering box brace,
lower control arms,
280 mm 5 stud discs redrilled to 4 stud,

Attach file:

---

  steering box brace 1 .jpg (115.67 KB)


  steering 6 .jpg (180.95 KB)


  steering 5 .jpg (126.48 KB)


  steering 4 .jpg (128.32 KB)


  steering 3 .jpg (37.73 KB)

Next is to assemble the front end so it becomes a roller.

Most of front end suspension is made by MADDAT here in South Australia.

The fiber glass bits are made by ALFA fiberglass in Victoria

Attach file:

---

  glass parts 1 .jpg (108.08 KB)


  sus parts 1 .jpg (159.00 KB)

Howdy,

I did consider using a rack and pinion.

I was able to get all of the standard steering
system new, except for the box so I took the easy
option.

A rack and pinion can always be fitted at a later
date as there is plenty of room for it now the
engine is so far back.

Time to install stuff and leave it there.

First up is the rear sub frame complete with
R200 diff and double adjustable coil overs.

Cheers,
Geoff

Attach file:

---

  rear sub frame 1 .jpg (156.07 KB)


  rear sus 1 .jpg (126.69 KB)


  rear sus 2.jpg (163.97 KB)

have you considered going rack & pinion?

This was a real turning point for me. . . . .

Now that the shell is painted, stuff can be fitted up
and stay there.

Hopefully no more welding on the shell as all brackets
and sheet metal work is done.

No more on, off, on, off, trial fittings
Hopefully.

The steering is going to be the standard steering box style with idler arm.

The standard steering box has the steering column connected to the top of it.

So I could place the steering wheel were I wanted it the column was cut from the steering box and a support bearing fitted to the steering shaft as it comes out the box.

The shaft now coming out the top of the steering box was then splined to accept a normal steering knuckle.

The steering column uses two knuckle joints (uni joints)
which are off set and will allow some movement in an accident.

The collapsible part of the Honda steering column is also still used.

Attach file:

---

  steering box 1 .jpg (133.20 KB)


  steering box 2 .jpg (197.83 KB)

At then end of the day it is a race car. The paint looks pretty good to me. When it's going past at 200kmh I don't think people will notice any imperfections or the lack of clear. Looks great

similar to blaze blue, very sweet build

Blue and home.

The paint is two pack and takes 7 days to harden fully.

There is 6 coats of colour, in hind site I should have had a couple of clear coats placed over the top.

Never thought of it until it was home. D'OH

Attach file:

---

  body paint 1 .jpg (195.50 KB)


  body paint 2 .jpg (185.75 KB)


  body paint 3 .jpg (175.13 KB)

And now it's "Rebel Blue"

Attach file:

---

  paint shell inside 1 .jpg (104.65 KB)


  shell paint 2 .jpg (143.90 KB)


  paint shell 3 .jpg (172.01 KB)


  shell paint 4 .jpg (133.17 KB)

The flares do look wider than they actually are.

I'm allowed to make the flares 100mm from the original width of the body work.

The original flare on the wheel arches were cut away to allow for the 15" wheels, so the flares as
125mm wide at the top to make up for the lack of the original flare.

And because the body curves in so much at the bottom of the car the flares are 180m wide at the bottom.

After I had finished the body work and thought it looked OK I sent "blue bastard" to the paint shop.

The spray painter had a different opinion about my body working
skills.

He fixed my "repaired body work" before applying 4 coats of under coat.

Attach file:

---

  paint shell primer 0 .jpg (103.07 KB)


  paint shell primer 1 .jpg (185.00 KB)