D, I believed the motor was probably making around 100-105 hp at the wheels but now it seems it's probably more like 110 given the top speed. I know the A12 made 80whp and it topped out some 8-12 mph slower on various parts of the track.

I could up the compression, go up a couple of MMs on the valve sizes and install a large volume cold air box. Additionally things like MSD ignition and electric fan would eek out a little more and probably get it most of the way there without loosing the drive ability.

At the moment I just plan to get it over to a dyno to optimize what's there. I may also pull out 35-40lbs of stuff and clean up the aerodynamics a bit (I can mount the mirrors on the roll cage and run a small air dam) along with a few small things. I can likely get the equivalent of 6-8hp.

The car is going really well but I'm is still loosing out on the straights especially on the start. I'm getting as much corner speed as possible so the acceleration is the only thing left. Hopefully the small gain will make the jump from top 5 to top 3. I'm 1 1/2 - 2 seconds off of third and 3 1/2 from first overall.

Tom

Tom

Thank you for the write up its very exciting to read your posts.

for another 20hp what is required from your engine or is going
an extra 20hp going to ruin its flexibility and response? or even
possible or already at its limits with the chassis setup you have?

Steve you pretty much nailed it on your description. The thing to keep in mind about my driving is although I haven't raced one in 25 years I still have habits developed racing 125cc GP bikes around Willow Springs. Also I am on Hoosier bais plys which do move around more than radials, of course I really didn't drive it differently with the radials to be honest.

In general I steer the car with the pedals; I trail the brakes to make the car rotate then balance it on the throttle. What you saw on the last turn leading on to the straight was I trail braking into the first apex then once the car is on the right trajectory I wind the throttle to the floor, as the speed builds the front end wants to push but the back end is still sliding so at the same time I'm unwinding the steering wheel just ahead of the front tires to make sure understeer doesn't set in.

It's classic 4 wheel drift but with the extra wrinkle of using timing to scrub as little speed as possible. The corner is done in 3 parts; the entrance is just enough oversteer to get the nose pointed on the correct trajectory and trim speed, the middle part of the corner is really three part transitional phase 4 wheel drift with more rear drift pre apex, equal front rear through the apex, then slightly more drift at the front post apex which I dial out with the steering wheel and then the last third of the corner is transitioning from drift to forward drive. It's all down to timing and faith that you've gotten it right from the outside it looks really aggressive, which it is but it also requires subtle inputs to be made 250ft before you expect them to happen. I come out onto the front stretch at 7500 rpms in 3rd gear (85 mph) which is hoofing it. If you look at in car video from some of the winged open wheel guys some of the them are barely doing that so I know the technique is working.

On the subject of left foot braking I am using the technique but not in the way most people think. This one is tough and the only other two people I have ever been able to confirm this works are a former Indy Car & 24hrs of Daytona winner and a well known racing engineer. The reason I carry so much entrance speed into one is this, on motorcycles a common technique is to preload the throttle to wind up the chassis as they say, while trailing the brakes into the corner (with my right foot) I preload the throttle. Similar to a heel and toe down shift only I leave my foot on the throttle, we're talking adding enough to just take up the slack in the ring and pinion and get the rear end to squat. You get the benefit of the trail braking holding the front down and the tiny bit of throttle to squat the back, you can get an extra 1-2 mph for the first third of the corner. There is also the added bonus of preventing rear wheel lock up and prevent rear wheel chatter. From time to time you'll see the inside front start to lock as I've over done it. If I had a dog box I would just left foot brake and go up and down through the the box without the clutch. I also know what I am doing is working because turn 1 mid corner I'm doing 72-73 mph, again watch video form Spring Mtn Motorsports and you'll see guys in new Vettes Porsches et al doing between 65-70 as well as winged open wheelers doing 70-75 mph.

Steve I'll be more than happy to give you tips, you drive the wagon well and are pretty smooth. The difference between the cars is based summed up by how a friend described my driving style years a go, he called it slippery smooth. It's like putting a boat on a trailer in a slight cross current, you just balance the sideways drift and convert it into forward motion at the right moment.. It will be good fun to have 2 1200s harassing the field.

Finally thanks for the nice word about my driving, I know I drive the 1200 damn well but it's nice to have people acknowledge how hard I'm working.

All I really need to clobber folks is another 20hp......that would be tasty.

Tom

Generally I would use loose to describe tendency to oversteer.. but in this case not sure that is exactly what I was seeing or not. From perspective of being behind him, looks like oversteer with some good controlled 4 wheel drifting on the longer high speed turns. That is what I see from the rear.. but, not being the one driving, I am not entirely sure if its truly oversteer or more a factor of the light weight of the car and the high entry speedy / carrying speed through corners that simply leads to a controlled drift out on some turns without actually oversteering. To me it looks like he has nicely controlled (induced) oversteer on tight turns to help bring the car around. The faster turns look much more balanced with some lift / left foot trail-braking induced oversteer after corner entry but before apex that carries onto 4 wheel drift after apex . I believe he does a lot of left foot braking.

Tom: What is it exactly? Induced oversteer from the left foot, or just so much speed + lightweight leading to 4 wheel drifts? or a little of both?

Quote:What is meant by 'loose'? Does it have a lot of oversteer, or is it 4-wheel drifting, or is is not tracking straight?

I remember when I was behind you last year being surprised just how much that car moved around. its really surprising. Yet, its obvious you are in complete control. For me it was IMPRESSIVE. Its pretty easy to drive a car that is almost glued to the ground (my wagon is like that).. it makes me look like I know how to drive. But to drive a car that loose like you do, takes some serious skill. My buddy races the 710 and when I was behind him, same thing.. although I will confess you control it and USE IT much better than he does. After seeing how you drove last year, I am excited to learn to drive the 1200 this year. I suspect I will be very slow for a while until I pickup some skill and gradually some confidence. A very different beast than the cars I have been use to. Very excited! And yes, we need to give those Porsches a run for their money.

When I see you in the fall, I am going to have lots of questions and be listening and learning and hopefully can stay close enough behind you for at least a few turns (warm ups??) to pick up some tips! You really do drive that thing phenomenally.

When I bought my 1200, my fabricator said "why do you want one of those little slow cars.. you are going to be so disappointed". He was at Pahrump with me and he knows I am a reasonably decent driver in the wagon and when he saw how you blew by me and the corner entry-through-exit speeds you carried in your car he came up to me and said "wow, I was wrong.. if a 1200 can be driven like that, you are going to have some fun in yours, lets get it out on the track!". You completely changed his view.

D my car is something like 3 inches wider than stock; the big differences are in transient handling, it's more stable under braking and the tendency for it to snap left right or right left in a series of S turns is reduced. Go figure the wider track makes it more stable. Also the corner speed is up about 2 mph (part of this is my getting the corner weights dialed). Our sports racer was 72 inches wide (same as an Indy Car) and you could be a total animal on the brakes as well as turning in.

If I flared the rear fenders I could probably go an inch wider except it would no longer fit on my trailer. The trailer was custom made for a TR3 so it's a bit narrow.

I need to sort the jetting; the main jet is good but I probably need to raise the needles and make a slight adjustment to the accelerator pump.I also have about 35-40lbs I can take out of the car as well as move the battery from the stock location. In the last 2 years we've made the car 7 seconds a lap faster. We can probable eek out another second or so without spending much if any money.

The addition of the u/c gearbox brought the brought the total dollars invested since 1984 up to $9000. For another $4000-5000 I could do things like put a dog box in it, shed 175lbs and fit better dampers. It would be an absolute weapon, still be cheaper than 75% of the cars I race against but I'm to cheap to do that.

Tom

I've have talked about switching to the Formula 500 for vintage racing and keeping the 1200 as my track day car (open wheelers are verboten at track days) but I'm having a lot fun with the 1200.

Tom how do the wide body 1200s handle in comparison?
1200s seem to be quite a handful even with best of setups

Steve I look forward to seeing the Whole-Lotta crew again; as you mentioned back in October the 1200 moves around a whole lot more but you put up some pretty respectable times in the wagon I suspect you'll do well. Hopefully we'll be able to stay in the small bore group and they'll have two 1200s out there harassing them. Due note John Wilkins told me he expects us to take it to the Porsches in the Datsun Porsche shoot out. As mentioned I got quite a few comments about my "driving style" so my new joke is "I just wish I could be more comfortable with oversteer". I used ignore comments about how much the car moved around till I saw some video shot by someone behind me and it was a Jeez-us that thing moves around. Sadly I never seem to hook up the GoPro. Realistically I'd rather see footage from other people's cars so I can see what my car is doing.

D the Elvas are indeed quite pretty.

I forgot to mention the noise in my car turned out to be the rear u joint, I also need to change the diff fluid. I checked the slop in the rear end and the yoke moves 4mm which is an awful lot but I've seen worse.

Tom

awesome report. Congrats on some solid racing. Wish I was there. I am planning to be at VARA race SEPT 30-OCT 2 there and hoping to have my 1200 there so you can teach me how to drive!!! Its going to be a whole new ballgame compared to the Wagon!