just my 2c - you'd have to do pretty well to top the service and workmanship of clive cams. A class act. some years ago there was a big dustup on moparmarket.com forums due to a bunch of lifters that were produced completely flat (they need a slight curve to 'work' and rotate during operation). Many cam companies sent them out as is and one in particular wouldn't even acknowledge the problem let alone help the customer. Never happened with clive as he actually checks stuff like that before supplying them. They are a very very very well respected firm in mopar circles for whatever it's worth, and the only place I'll now deal with for practically anything. GEtting the right profile is of course important, but it's obviously just as important that the item perform and last the distance too. That you can be sure of with them.

General advice - if in doubt go for the milder of any 2 grinds suggested, and when it comes to lobe separation angle, usually if unsure a fraction tighter (within sane limits) will lose less overall and a fraction too wide either side of whatever might be optimal for a given combination. But that's just my experience, and what I've been advised of, not etched in stone.

and whatever you do, follow cam pre-lube and cam bed in procedures to the letter. I can't stress that enough. It's truly make or break as far as that goes. Don't let a brand new cam sit at idle, you can wreck it quick smart.

Camtech in Sydney I believe also has a Cam Doctor old school these days but well worth putting any cam on as it will give you the lift on number one inlet valve at TDC for correct cam timing which is a hell of a lot quicker than spending hours with a degree wheel.
Example with Grind X the Cam Doctor will give you a figure of say 225 thou lift (Well they were an American invention after all) at TDC number one cylinder and when done that way the cam timing will be spot on because the Cam Doctor measures everything with both a linear encoder and a rotary encoder to check exactly what the grind is, It can also make sure the different cylinder lobes are all indexed correctly to each other.
It and other ones such as the Andrews one really tell you if the cam grind is good or not.

Factory? Do you mean the Nissan Competition 70 degree cam? 13001-H5710

I've always tried to use the factory 70 degree cam in my road motors, the only time I didn't gave me a motor that needs twin DCOE's just to get a decent idle speed, & doesn't really work til 3500 rpm. I think the 70 degree cams were ground by Wade, but the last one I got seems to come from Camtech in Sydney. Went well with a single DGV & extractors & electronic ignition. I was going to use the latest one in the A15 I'm going to fit to my Sunny Wagon, until I decided to keep the standard cam. That's if it'd stop raining.

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Nah, F1 still use conventional camshafts. Variable valve timing is not permitted. The Pneumatic part is the valve springs, not the actuation.

Clive from Clive Cams use to work for Wade - nothing lost for now

While I agree with your sentiments about Wade Cams, sadly they closed their doors to business on the 28 Feb 2014, they are no more

Surprised nobody quoted the Nissan rally grind numbers after all Rally cars need torque and flexibility same as road cars and when all said and done the people who designed the engine should also be the ones who worked out what cam grinds are the best compromise as when all said and done every cam is a compromise.Nissan Cams are measured at 0.5mm compared to the US 50 thou standard when trying to compare figures.

That is why we now have variable cam timing and lift or both on modern engines and formula one does away with the cam totally by using very fancy electronically controlled solenoids aided by air pressure systems to give infinately variable cam timing and lift in some test mule engines, Even BMW is experimenting with such designs for road use in the future.

In the USA if you have deep pockets I know who to talk to and it will be something very special but the cost will also be special and it is not one of the known Cam Companies but those in the know in Nascar would know who I am talking about those engines are engineering masterpieces and Formula One does not rate compared to wht has been achieved with those dinosaur engines.

Wade cams were the supplier of choice for Gibson Motorsport and Australian GTR's were the best in the world under the rules and ran Wade cams not Nismo, So ring Wade and talk to them and no I don't know anyone at Wade, But their reputation is well founded as being the best Australian Cam people.

I do know a bit about Cams as when I was an engine builder and machinist we were one of the few people with a "Cam Doctor" a now long gone pioneer in Cam Measurement equipment, There are a few companies who supply good gear to do the same these days and Andrews cams in the US makes one of the more affordable Cam measurement systems, the other Guys Adcole who make the Rolls Royce of Camshaft measuring equipment are unknown to most people because they generally supply only Manufacturers with a few exceptions one being the US Company I alluded to.

If your supplier does not have the right gear to measure Cams then they cannot guarantee their grinds are what they should be either, I measured grinds from a number of suppliers and frankly maybe they ground their cams by dragging them around the block behind the shop ute in some nameless cases.

One thing to also consider is what gearbox are you using, if this is a street car, the stock boxes drop 2800 between 2 and 3rd so to aggressive of a cam will make life miserable with a stock box.

Tom

This is one of Clives
Might be abit big for a stock bottom end on the street though

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