I think the turn signals are not working with lights on due to LED bulbs in the dash cluster.

Also the buzzing noise was the seat belt warning buzzer not the flasher. Unplugged the wire from the buzzer.

Took it for a test drive last night and the hood flew up and smashed the windshield. Just my luck.

Build update.

Floor pans all seam sealed with Dynatron seam sealer. I bought 3 tubes @ 19.99 ea and wound up only using 1. I plan on using another on the underside of the car too. Underside also needs to be coated with POR 15 when I get warmer weather.










Installed back seat and the metal clips from the last post (for catching the reclining rear seat)




I was bought this eBay room light from Tawain or Thailand I forget. It was wired totally different than the stock light. I had to study the wiring on the original one and then make up some new wiring for this piece to actually work for the car. Very frusterating since it was listed as 1200 part but clearly it doesnt work at all out of the box.

Here is my wiring job. With the help of my father who does stained glass soldering.



Also cleaned up the crud on the dash that accumulated over the last 45 years. Gave a looskie over the wiring and double checked everything. I had some spare LED lights left over from the Vanilla Ice build and decided to put some LED lights in the speedo, temp gauge, turn signal lights, and the tachometer.

Painted the fascia gloss black. Cleaned up the gauges and the gauge faces. Painted the glove box lid to match.

Installed dash and rewired all the wiring and speedo cable in the dash. Installed heater tubes. Heater actually work now!!! (no heat but blows air) I need to replace the heater hoses that are currently bipassed.














Test fit the carpet and seats and seat belts.

Carpet fits okay. Its actually rubber mats not carpet on second thought. Ordered some generic floor plugs off ebay. If anyone is wondering they are +/-40mm i.d. I found some generic ones from China for $5 for 5 instead of the $30 each from Bprojects.






Summary.

Engine starts and runs fine. Electric fuel pump works. Wipers, wiper washer, headlights, work. Brake lights work. Lower front lights work. Side fender lights work. LED lights work on the gauges except the fuel/temp gauge. Room light works

Cigarette lighter does not work
Turn signals do not work when lights are on
Light on temp gauge/fuel gauge does not work
Turn signal flasher unit makes a very loud and annoying buzzing sound.

New seat belts I bought which are US Mil issue Humvee 3 point retractable belts absolutely do not work with the stock mounting points. I tried retrofitting a mounting point behind the rear side trim panels. Still did not work. I must scrap the 3 point belt for a 2 point retractable belt. Pretty dissapointed. Took alot of work and trial and error. Now I also have to pull the seats out which were a pain the arse to install.

Thanks DD I was able to figure these out. They are catches for the rear seat and I was able to install them with the shims. ::thumbs up::

Check out http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... at_Part_Numbers#Rear_Seat

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Thanks Dd. And KULH how does these connect to the seat belts?

Seat recliner cover

EDIT

Happy with the grille. Not happy with the bumper. I want a 1971 bumper for my 1971 car.

Progress.

Driver's side floor pan needed modification. I had to cut the pan short (orange line) and pound itinto shape to lay flat on the floor rail. Then I had to cut and shape some infill pieces to close the gap and seal the floor pan to the floor rail where it angles up at the firewall.

This took some praying and it worked. It all came together. Finished welding the driver's floor pan. Some areas I had to beat into shape from under the car.

Grind/wire wheel/sanded to clean up.




















I decided to jump on the POR-15 bandwagon. I followed the direction as close as I could. 2 coats of POR on all panels on interior side. Underside of the car still needs to be cleaned, and coated. I am going to wait and focus on putting back in the interior.





















I have brand new seat belts I bought. They are OEM for a military HMV Hummer. Going to fit tomorrow.

Can anyone identify these parts that were in a box when I bought the car?????????????

Glad to see you using the badge. I bought it in 2004 and never seemed right to fit it to a sedan ... looks good on the black coupe grille!

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I made progress, slow progress welding the passenger floor pan in. There is a bit of a learning curve of course for me because this is the first time welding sheet metal. The rear passenger floor pan is done completely.

My setup




New grrrrrillle! (not new, refurbished) Fellow forum member gave me this Z badge about 3 to 4 years ago and finally got around to using it!




Here is a progress photo at 75% or so with the front passenger floor pan.






Here are photos of the completed floor pan. I welded the perimeter of the pan as well as filled in the spot weld from underneath on the floor rail/frame rail whatever it is called.










After complete I noticed a bit of a fitment issue with the part of the frame rail that angles up toward the firewall. The angle of the new floor pans does not match the angle of the frame rail. The passenger side has about a 1/16" growing to 1" gap where the floor pan terminates at the firewall. See below






The driver's side is about 25% done. First I cut the old pan out. This side was extremely reluctant to come out and I sprained my back trying to pry out the old floor pan. After it was finally out I chucked it about 25 feet down my driveway in anger/satisfaction!








Driver's side floor pan fitment.






I have the same problem but much worse on the driver's side floor pan where it meets the frame rail/firewall. This side is only seam welded on the front and rear so it is not too late to cut the seams and fix it some how.

The gap is 1/16" to like 2" !!! How is this possible? Perhaps the mold for these floor pans is for a later model car, or my car is just abnormal, not sure.










I think the passenger side it is too late to address it with new metal. I was thinking of filling it in with seam sealer.

The driver's side I will need to cut the seams and beat the panel into shape, probably adding a separate piece of sheet metal to correctly match the angle of the frame rail. Unfortunate!!