stock carb is much simpler to maintain and looks the goods
unless you are after economy, turbo forget it.

I beg to differ. EFI takes less to maintain. No regular adjustments are required. Runs smoother, more economy more power

i drove my previous a15egi for about a week before sold the egi system to a forumer. It runs definitely smoother. but i feel my current twin SU is more powerful. maybe because the car was left for years and faulty wiring(?)

should i file this are in red circle?

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It could reduce atomisation and cause flat spots

Hi, you mean I should file the head there to avoid flat spots?

grind this part, using the gasket as a guide. Do not make the ports larger (they are fine-tuned for max HP in the 3000-6400 RPM range)

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thanks.

a14/a15 came with carburetor and efi. ga16 also carburetor and efi. So, can i adopt GA16DE wiring and ecu to make my a14e/a15e work?

GA16DE is volumetrically higher efficiency so the ECU may not be a good fit (16-valve engine vs 8-valve engine)

But may work fine (earlier Datsun ECUs were self-tuning when used with the matching Airflow Meter). Adapt a Nissan Optical CAS unit to the A-series engine as that's what the GA16DE ECU uses for an input. Use the ECU with its matching MAF Sensor, and a portion of the intake tubing, try to make it similar to the stock configuration. The MAF can be supposedly be set using the KEY ON-KEY OFF procedure.

Will this work on the A-series engine? Probably, but how well I do not know

MAF for USA-spec 1992 GA16DE with NVCS
Nissan 22680-55Y00, 22680-57Y00/22680-57Y02
* The MAF bolts to the air tube and is calibrated for flow through this aluminum casting
* In the last photo you can see the sensor (silver air contacts) in the small dark hole

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Here's a Nissan MAF I fixed a few months ago from a 2000 QG18DE. As you can see the air contact is rusty-looking. It would start, but not run above idle. Spray cleaner fixed it right up and the car is running perfect to this day

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