$94 is an acceptable cost here in my country. It is always good to check with another shop

The above explanation is not fully understand. it takes time and alot of home work. :)
Thanks for the input....

BTW, the TIG welding cost of MYR 300 is acceptable? i didn't check with another other shop yet.

It was 'experimental' until the Dec. 2015 update. Now MS3 officially supports SR, RB and VG trigger wheels for CAS timing (wheels with four different length slots). E16 wheel looks like the KA and 280ZX wheels, so unknown if MS3 works with the CAS portion of these wheels (3 small slots, 1 large slot)

The old MS2 supports Nissan CAS for ignition spark timing maps and coil trigger but does not support the cam position ring.

In any case it is not needed for the A14E or A15E engine, which uses the standard points-type distributor. MegaSquirt can also use the points as an input (no CAS required)

I have had one of these EFI intakes for about 20 years. Bought it off a Aussie 'bloke' on this form a long time ago and had so many plans to use it until I went SR20. Now I finally have another car to use it on, so I've been preparing again to do so. You can upgrade the throttle body to use a CA20 which is much bigger. The injectors are 280ZX injectors, so any upgraded injectors you can put in a 280ZX/L 28 will also drop into the A series EGI. I built a block off plate for the bottom of the intake so I don't have to use the coolant ports on the head and can get rid of a ton of extra stuff such as the EGR and such. I am working on the timing control aspect of it now, and the E15ET or E16 distributor (CAS) is the way to go. Supposedly Megasquirt 3 can work with the Nissan optical CAS as-is, but it's still considered 'experimental software'. The better bet is to swap the optical disk in the E series dizzy to the Megasquirt disk, then you can effectively control timing with any Megasquirt ECU. With the E series dizzy, you don't have to do any other crank trigger setup to control timing with Megasquirt. These intakes are legit, but prone to cracking as you can tell, so don't try to port anything much at all. I'm mostly anxious to see how much more power and gas mileage they'll get once fully tuned. I'm going to throw mine on an A15 in my B310 wagon probably about a year from now, probably using MS3, and setup for flex fuel, then maybe eventually turbo it.

The local shop asking MYR 300.00 (around aud 94.00) to weld the manifold.

Wow... Looks like I need to read alot to DIY. Will do it slowly.

Here's a Nissan MAF I fixed a few months ago from a 2000 QG18DE. As you can see the air contact is rusty-looking. It would start, but not run above idle. Spray cleaner fixed it right up and the car is running perfect to this day

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GA16DE is volumetrically higher efficiency so the ECU may not be a good fit (16-valve engine vs 8-valve engine)

But may work fine (earlier Datsun ECUs were self-tuning when used with the matching Airflow Meter). Adapt a Nissan Optical CAS unit to the A-series engine as that's what the GA16DE ECU uses for an input. Use the ECU with its matching MAF Sensor, and a portion of the intake tubing, try to make it similar to the stock configuration. The MAF can be supposedly be set using the KEY ON-KEY OFF procedure.

Will this work on the A-series engine? Probably, but how well I do not know

MAF for USA-spec 1992 GA16DE with NVCS
Nissan 22680-55Y00, 22680-57Y00/22680-57Y02
* The MAF bolts to the air tube and is calibrated for flow through this aluminum casting
* In the last photo you can see the sensor (silver air contacts) in the small dark hole

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thanks.

a14/a15 came with carburetor and efi. ga16 also carburetor and efi. So, can i adopt GA16DE wiring and ecu to make my a14e/a15e work?

grind this part, using the gasket as a guide. Do not make the ports larger (they are fine-tuned for max HP in the 3000-6400 RPM range)

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