User Login    
 + Register
  • Main navigation
Login
Username:

Password:


Lost Password?

Register now!
Fast Search
Slow Search
Google Ad



Browsing this Thread:   1 Anonymous Users





Considering L series, again.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/11/26 0:38
From Las Vegas USA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 2032
Offline
So I'm going round and round trying to find a low bucks close ratio gearbox solution (there isn't one) I started to think back to the reason Harry stated as part of why he went to the L series motor. One of was availability of decent gearboxes. The other obviously is mid range.

The current A15 motor is putting out around 105whp and I could tune it harder without going to crazy (keeping mind full race A15 is 150) but as with each notch up the motor becomes pesky. When my A12 went from 73whp to 80whp it no longer did anything below 4500 RPMs.

So the thought is a 120whp L18 is not tuned that heavily versus 175 for full race engine. This could be tied to a 280ZX gearbox and would only add about 60-80lbs to the car.

The other bonus is the vintage racing class I run allows me up to 2.0. Because the LB110 ran L series I can get away with it in the 1200.

So thoughts?

Posted on: 2017/1/31 4:11
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Considering L series, again.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/7/19 12:41
From sydney australia
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 1858
Offline
I think you should go for it. An L18 will overbore just as much as an A15, so 1900 cc is available. Having driven a Sunny with a big HP A15 & another with a stock L18 out of a ute, the difference in lap times wasn't that much, & if I'd read that L series book I'd have just grabbed a cam from one of the L20B's & put it in at timing mark 2 or something like that. The engine would have then revved to about 7000 rpm, instead of dropping dead at 5300. You might have to change your diff ratio, I went from a 4.6 to a 4.1 diff ratio, but the car would still pull around 190k's (120 mph) with the taller diff. If somebody you know has an L18 sitting around doing nothing, I suggest you borrow it for a season. Is there any reason you don't go straight to an L20B? There's little difference in weight & I know they fit into 1200's just as easily. So long story short, go for the L series.

Posted on: 2017/1/31 6:19
_________________
Would it be possible to get a late model Nissan Micra, fit the 1.8 litre motor from a Tiida & then turbocharged it? Your answer must include parts numbers for the conversion. You have 12 months. Commence.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Considering L series, again.
Moderator
Joined:
2001/5/3 7:04
From 48 North
Group:
Registered Users
Contentmaster
Usermaster
Posts: 31575
Offline
The PB110 had a longer wheelbase ... the rules will still allow it?

Posted on: 2017/1/31 8:50
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Considering L series, again.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/11/26 0:38
From Las Vegas USA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 2032
Offline
Dave, the car or more correctly the track is 3" wider. As the lower control arms were widened to match the rear it pulled the wheel forward increasing the castor and wheelbase. I need to double check but I think the wheelbase is now 91"

As for the rules that's not an issue as I'm in a catch all class. In fact I could run a full tube frame car under the rules set.

I also believe the A series goodies would recoup any money spent fitting an L18 or L20 post install.

Posted on: 2017/2/1 6:07
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Considering L series, again.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/10/28 6:49
From under the Firmament LOL no twiglight effect BS
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 10924
Offline
Im gonna say the weight is an enemy is such a crisp simple lightweight design but
tuning an A series to 160hp and keep refreshing every season is not affordable
There is a chance you can use an SR series bottom end if you know of a good tig
welding guy and run the L series head on it.
Running some offset sleeves only 1mm or 2mm from the centre wont affect crank
and rod alignment as this is common is v8s using different make heads.
offset pistons pin area is machined and pin fitted with a bronze washer or
new piston made to suit the needed offset.

You can also offset the head bolts to centre the valve alignment as L series
pros do to get fuel and air away from the bore walls unlike the A series
which already has this design from scratch.

Just have a look at my anal garage research I did in the past

Bare block weights with main caps

L16 37kg
L18 45kg (siamesed)
L20 50kg
SR 22kg

L18 block weight minus SR20 = 23kg saving!

SRL20B hybrid will be 12kg lighter than SR20DE 16v and 23kg lighter than L18 8v

There is 2 or 3mm offset in the middle of the sr20de block and here I did a
mockup on photoshop to compare the sr20de at the top and L20b head gasket below.

You would have built a 23 kg lighter L20B using as SR block and it would perform like an L20B. No one will know unless you tell them -DatzenMike

SR bell to stumpy gearbox no issues and since Ive thought about this
it would be even easier to use an SR18 bottom end they have 86mm crank
and 82.5mm bores lending themselves nicely for cheap Sr20 replacement
sleeves to be fitted eliminating any offset issues.
SR18de bottom ends are throw away to most SR enthusiasts

The little red scribble is where the repositioned oil feed would be
it just on the other side of the middle head bolt

Attach file:



jpg  SRL20B.jpg (83.79 KB)
737_5891d99ab4cbc.jpg 406X719 px

jpg  SRL20B vs L20B headgasket.jpg (183.61 KB)
737_5891da0e7cacb.jpg 800X641 px

Posted on: 2017/2/1 12:31

Edited by D on 2017/2/1 12:48:30
Edited by D on 2017/2/1 12:51:08
Edited by D on 2017/2/1 12:52:33
Edited by D on 2017/2/1 12:53:53
_________________
"Australia" is formed by all its geographically listed territories "including" Norfolk, Christmas & Cocos Islands. The word include excludes all else before it therefore you have no legal rights.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Considering L series, again.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/11/26 0:38
From Las Vegas USA
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 2032
Offline
D interesting stuff but SR18s not real common here plus when you start getting into matching I might as well stuff the E16 crank in the block or put E15ET I have on the spare A15 (I have the various bits to put it together but it is a good bit of machine work).

Posted on: 2017/2/2 2:39
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: Considering L series, again.
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
Joined:
2002/10/28 6:49
From under the Firmament LOL no twiglight effect BS
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 10924
Offline
yep fair enough the sr20 has enough beef to compensate for dry sleeving of 2 and 3 as well
if you ever picked up an SR and the an L series block youd be shocked and then the SR20de
crank, rods, pistons and sump are lighter which I forgot all up around 30kg lighter.
It was just in case you had the skills from mates or within the family.
L series that can breathe well are amazing 8v engines.

Posted on: 2017/2/2 8:57
_________________
"Australia" is formed by all its geographically listed territories "including" Norfolk, Christmas & Cocos Islands. The word include excludes all else before it therefore you have no legal rights.
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer






You can view topic.
You cannot start a new topic.
You cannot reply to posts.
You cannot edit your posts.
You cannot delete your posts.
You cannot add new polls.
You cannot vote in polls.
You cannot attach files to posts.
You cannot post without approval.

[Advanced Search]