Luigi

Before you oil the head off check some of the other parts:

Check that all the rocker pedestals will flow, you can use a syringe or oil pump can.

After that with the rocker assembly off crank the car over with the starter motor and see if it squirts oil out of the head.

Check the T bolt and make sure it's the correct one, the A14/15 T bolt is different from the A12, it's likely not a problem on your set up.


I do have a couple of other questions; where did the valve springs come from? Any chance the springs are near coil binding? How aggressive is the cam grind?

I feel you pain, when I put the A15 in my coupe years ago I got it spectacularly wrong. I had an oddball T-bolt, while longer than the A12 one it was two short for A15 and while it torgued done to spec it just didn't feel right yet I ran it anyway. While it was fine during the break-in it made it a lap and a half and popped the head gasket. When I pulled it apart it was clear the rockers weren't getting enough to oil. So along with having to weld up the head surface and have it milled I had to replace the entire rocker assembly. It didn't end there because when the head gasket went it also did minor damage to,the valve seats. I was frantically trying to the motor running for a race and never even thought to a leak down. I actually swapped out short blocks and it was only after I bolted the head back on and it wouldn't start that I knew it was the head. I actually ended up buying a second race prepped GX head while I sorted out the motor. I was ready to stick my head in a vise before I figured it out.

Tom

Quote:Double springs do not cause wear like that

Rocker arms are not made of soft material. Your engine has an oiling problem




T bolt



A14 head used on early (1970-1973) A12 engine -- A14 head does not have the oiling hole


If A14 center bolt is used on A12 block it won't work correctly. Must use A12 center bolt which narrows down in the correct area


Oil passage must be added, or a slot cut in the head, or a slot cut in the head gasket

Attach file:

---

  gasket.jpg (26.87 KB)

Hi!

Thanks for your replies.

I bought my double springs, seats and retainers from BProjects, the grind of my camshaft is not agressive total intake timing 266º total exhaust timing 266º (Iskenderian Grind). I think i used a T bOLT FROM MY a12 Engine on A14 cylinder Head. Its a Problem?

I understand the problem of cylinder head is more lubrification..

I wil make the engine run properly. At the moment i set up the normal A12 engine (so soomth sound)

Thanks Again

Luis

the A12 bolts with A12 block is correct

Luigi, as Dave said the A12 bolt would be the right one. My mistake was using the A12 bolt in the A15 block which partially obscure the oil passage. In my case it destroyed the rocker shaft as well as the rockers.

I would take the plugs out and the rocker shaft assembly off the head, then crank it over on the starter and see if you are getting oil squirting out. Should only take 2-3 seconds.

Also check the aluminum rocker tower that's over the oiling hole to see if its plugged.

Hi!

I will see why i have no oil on cylinder head (blocked oil channel? (cut the gasket or talk with the machinist if is the problem ), and set up all again with standard rocker arms (i will need one at perfect conditions) double springs standard pushrods and 720 lifters that im using

If you have any improvement, please let me know

Its being dificult wake up this engine

Many thanks for all replies

Luis

Hi!

As i said i have an DB-66 iskendrian regrind camshaft, i read in this paper that im enclosing:
valve lash 0.020 = 0508mm is the measure that i have to adjust intake and exhaust valves at cold? (i adjust only 0.35mm) It is the problem to cause wearing on rocker arms too? Im afraid incorrect valve gap cause any damage on the cam.
I think i make a mess...

What does it means valve lift 0.420?

Im new in engine modifications, please help me

Thanks

Luis

Attach file:

---

  7518.jpg (39.11 KB)

Valve lift 0.420" inch means the valve opens that much when the cam opens it. That is slightly less lift than stock

Valve gap (lash) is more than stock, perhaps because it is for higher RPMs and/or higher racing temperatures. I think stock lash is OK, just not optimum

No worries

* Too much lash: hammers the tip of the valves. Does not hurt the cam or lifters

* Too little lash: Causes poor running, if run for very long results in burnt valve, if revved high might cause bent pushrod and/or valve

Lash does not cause the extreme wear on the rocker arm like this:


Instead of wondering, find out if the oil is working. It's easy to do what Rallytwit said: remove plugs and rocker shaft, crank engine for 20 seconds and if no oil runs out the center shaft tower, it is the problem

Thanks Dave

It is good ear your advices, and thanks to share your knowledges

Now i will focus my mind only on oil lack and find an used rocker arms, and forget the rest, i will follow your advise and Rallytwiit,

I dont want make bad figure with my relatives

It must run long time away....

Thanks

Luis